Homeward Bound

I was a bit overwhelmed as we left Asheville.  Not sure if I was ready to be home or ready to turn around and head back out left me feeling anxious.  We pulled out of Asheville in the typical crazy traffic of the Medusan head of highways in the area.  Making our way just out of the city, we headed back into the wilderness of the Pisgah National Forest where we scored a campsite at the Lake Powhatan campground.

Surprised at how instantly my nerves calmed, we set up camp.  With our chairs set up, the breezes blowing through the trees and the sun filtering through the high canopy of trees, I breathed a sign of relief and settled in.

We spent the afternoon wandering the area enjoying Lake Powhatan and the myriad of trails all around before having a lazy meal of nachos and a rousing game of scrabble.  The sun set as the campfires all around were lit and we whiled the night away enjoying being back in our element.

The next day was perfect for more venturing into the area’s trails.  Seeing one in particular that had an offshoot to the Blue Ridge Parkway, we set out with plenty of water and snacks packed.  I continue to be amazed at how different this area is from those we had been in across the country.  With thick, dark and green forest laden with mushrooms, fungi and streams, we followed one trail to the next, climbing all the way.

The view “at the top” was worth the effort and we stopped to take it all in before hitting another section of the Mountain to Sea trail.  And, no, I didn’t know we had this trail which runs from the Smokey Mountains to the Outer Banks of North Carolina – yet another hike that calls my name!

We finished our hike and spent the afternoon being less energetic.  We took blankets and a book to the beach on the Lake before the clouds set in and caught sight of a black bear on the walk back to camp.  Apparently very common in the area, the black bears don’t pose as much of a risk as a tourist attraction.  They kind of treat humans as a bother, something that requires a change in course vs a threat. 

With the trip home still looming, we woke the next morning to hit the trails yet again for another section of great hiking.  Doing another loop that wasn’t supposed to be as strenuous as the day before, we took a wrong turn at some point and ended up sweaty and winded and not exactly sure where we were!  Staying on what we knew was SUPPOSED to be the right trail was, in fact, the right trail and we made it back unscathed, with the exception of possibly a bit more fatigued than expected, before breaking camp and making our way to what would be our final stop before home.

With plans to meet up with dear friends from Greenville, we chose Paris Mountain park just a 30 minute drive from the city.  Google maps plotted a route with tiny roads that wound and twisted … where is a map app that understands that driving an RV is not exactly the same as a compact car?!  Rob is quite the expert driver now and, despite not ENJOYING these challenges, we finally made it to the park.

Another surprisingly wonderful park, we found a campsite, got set up, met the neighbors, shared one of the final Holy City beers in stock and got ready for a night with familiar faces.  Bernie and Donna arrived late afternoon.  We showed off our amazingly advanced skill of RV entertaining (smiley face) with appetizers waiting and a full dinner and dessert in the wings.  The hours flew by as we caught up on each others’ lives, watched the sun set and finished the day off with a fine and final campfire before they headed back home.

Home

Rob and I woke the next morning to find ourselves face to face with our final journey.  Not sure to be elated or sad, we approached the reentry without fanfare.  Arriving exactly at the same time as a tropical depression dumping buckets of rain and the highway closed with a hazardous waste spill and a 2 hour delay we parked our now beloved “home on wheels” back at Holy City and snuck home shrouded in rain.

After 5 months, 27 states, 25 National Parks, memories of good times with family and old friends and a list of countless new friends to add to the address book – we are home.  Sure to reconnect with friends and get back into activities, the whole experience will fall into the “remember when” category before we know it.  OR WILL IT?!

In the meantime, this is Moonshadow, waiting on the next adventure.  Until then …

Close But Yet So Far

We woke our last morning in the Great Smokies with the herd of elk again in residence.  The herd slowing wandered in from an adjoining pasture until the big bull arrived to show off and keep the cows in order and send the young bulls scattering.  Our exit was happily delayed as they slowly decided to move out of our path of retreat.

Needing to always get our morning hike accomplished, we drove back into the park to the Mingus Mill area.  The mill was built with a then state of the art water powered turbine vs the old water wheel design and is still in operation, selling grits and flour it grinds each day.  We checked out the mill but also the nearby path and had a challenging mostly uphill 6 mile hike to get the blood pumping before hitting the road.

The next stop on our agenda was Asheville, the home and stomping grounds of several friends old and new.  Our previous Moonshadow adventure, that of the marine variety, ended with our boat being sold to Steve Thompson and his wife Liz who became dear friends (YES, despite our selling them a BOAT!!).  You recall we spent the eclipse with Steve so he was ready for us when we pulled into Asheville and graciously hosted us on the grounds of the Salvage Station, an entertainment venue on the French Broad river.

We set up camp mid afternoon in our parking lot abode and were met early on by Steve and Liz who escorted us to – what else?! – a local brewery (Hillman is definitely worthy of a visit!) for beer and great food and getting caught up on our lives and adventures.

Day two in Asheville was full of fun with a morning bike adventure to downtown for coffee and wandering.  Asheville is a particular favorite of Rob’s and mine and we never tire of seeing what’s new or changed since our last visit.  Being it was too early to start checking out breweries, we instead headed to Trader Joe’s to replenish our culinary favs.   

Upon our return, Steve surprised us showing up with 2 kayaks strapped to his roof and whisked us upstream to have an afternoon paddle down the French Broad back to the Salvage Station.  Having not paddled in 5 months, it felt great to be back on the water and we managed to get back without so much as a spill and even met a unicorn along the way!

The evening brought more fun when Steve and Liz’s friends we had chanced to meet in Yellowstone – Craig, Sheryl and their daughters Josie and Elsa – invited us to their place for bbq and ice cream.  They picked us up that evening and we headed to their lovely home where we so enjoyed catching up on our adventures.  Craig had spent the last year on the road (Roadskool) with Josie and Elsa touring the US National Parks as well as a stint with Sheryl in Peru.  You just gotta love wanderlust!!!

We shared a delicious grilled salmon meal on the back deck with the sun setting through the trees and the birds in chorus all around before heading to the local handmade ice cream store for my favorite treat.  Of course, it wasn’t only MY fav.  While in Yellowstone, Rob and I had just bought huckleberry ice cream when we chanced another encounter with the Plocica family where we shared our cones with the girls – seemed that ice cream was our common tie, one that no one had a problem repeating!

The fun in Asheville continued the next day after a casual, cool morning - perfect for baking banana muffins before we hit the river for another kayak adventure.  Taking on a bit more spirited section of the river, we left from the Salvage Station and headed downriver to the dam (BEFORE the 8’ drop!).   Steve graciously was right there as we pulled off the river to escort us home again.   Seriously, these folks know how to make you feel welcome!

After a run up to Steve’s including a load of much needed laundry being done, we headed out to the local baseball stadium for the game with delightful daughter Katie in tow.  The Plocica gang joined us as well as other friends and we had a great night cheering on the Asheville Tourists while eating surprisingly decent stadium food along with thirsty Thursday beer specials!

We ended the night back at the Salvage Station to sneak a peak at the talent for the night.  Luke Pell of The Bachelor fame was the headliner for the night.  Arriving as the warmup band finished their set, we watched the surprisingly trendy crowd of “bachelorettes” anxious for their chance to meet the “star” turned band headliner.   Of course, Katie didn’t mind getting a private intro to Luke backstage courtesy of Steve, making the night quite the success!

Having bounced back and forth on what day to actually arrive back home and the logistics of doing so, we had more time on our hands than we probably should have allowed.  With a week still to go before our house would be available, I started to feel antsy.  Not sure if we should stay or go, settle or move or WHAT, we decided it might be time to make another move down the road and see what transpired.

Emotional and thankful for our dear Asheville friends, we said our goodbyes.  With the journey near its end, nostalgia, change, fear and excitement were at an all time peak as we made the next step on our journey toward home.

Total Eclipse of the Sun

With Randy and Theresa on their way home, we settled back into our more solitary life of the past 5 months.  After putting things back in order, we had a light meal, skipped the alcohol, checked out the Ranger campfire program and made it an early night.

Having a rendezvous with our good friend, Steve from nearby Asheville at noon on the other side of the Park, we got up early to knock out our daily hike (this one straight up the Jakes Creek Trail) and get on the road. 

We met Steve when he showed up to view our sailboat, Moonshadow, that was on the market five years ago.  It was love at first sight and Steve and Liz bought the boat and we became fast friends.  Hearty and good-hearted, we have always enjoyed our time together and we were looking forward to our planned Eclipse adventure.

Through a friend’s invitation, Steve had been contracted to stage direct the Eclipse event at Clingman’s Dome in the Great Smokey Mtn National Park.  Rob and I are always ready to jump in to help and came along to do whatever was needed.  Making a preliminary run to the Dome on Sunday, I took a minute to hike up to the nearby section of the Appalachian Trail.  Maybe a future adventure?

We had been invited to camp at the visitor center and were welcomed by the sentry for the local herd of elk who had perched himself on the nearby rock pile.  With the sun setting over the field and students from Roanoke getting ready for their role manning telescopes for the eclipse, I whipped up a spaghetti feast replete with wine and fresh baked derby pie.

The next morning had us rising before the sun to head up the mountain for the big event.  Being given the task of escort and crowd control for the talent coming from the stage, we had great fun meeting all of the brilliant players in the world of solar knowledge and exploration.  From solar physisist Dr. Helen Mason to Japanese astronaut, Soichi Naguchi to Dr. Robert Sneed, Head Chief of the Cherokee Tribe and more, we felt privileged to be a part.

And of course, the ECLIPSE!  I can remember seeing a partial eclipse as a child.  Looking at the crescent shape of the sun through a whole in paper was all I knew to expect.  The programming provided was brilliant and the weather was the same.  Perched on top of one of the tallest peaks in the state, we were well positioned for the best of the event. 

With clouds coming and going throughout the day, the sky cleared the hour before totality and we had the perfect view.  With a dance troupe performing an inspiring interpretive dance and light classical music lifting to the heavens, the sun and moon performed their own dance as 1800 bespectacled faces looked on. 

The sun set all around us, the stars started peeking through when the whistle blew.  Off came my glasses, I looked up and all I could do was gasp and marvel at the spectacular beauty that is our world.  Mesmerized by the visual phenomenon as well as sharing the moment with the people nearby, it all happened far too quickly.  I knew immediately that I had just witnessed a great gift.

And it was over.  Just like that.  The program continued until the final contact left the two celestial bodies back on their separate courses but the crowd dispersed quickly as the glow faded.  Finishing our duties, waiting for transport and the ride back to camp got us back as the sun began to drop in the sky.

 

Rob and I decided to spend another night in our cozy field and bask in the glow of the day.  We wandered out to the visitor center to check out the elk herd grazing there and found they had moved to our field by the time we returned. Another spectacular day had ended and we eased into the night feeling thankful and full.

Adventures with Family

Our exit didn’t go exactly as planned.  Too many working parts had us all scrambling in different directions.  We weren’t too terribly far behind after breakfast and formalities and hit the road with guests in tow.  We’d spend the next five days together, four of us in the rv eventually covering well over 1000 miles, 3 national parks, a national historic park and 2 state park campgrounds!

Being 1 year newlyweds, brother Randy and new wife Theresa are still starry eyed.  Easily passing time sitting at the table doing LA Times crosswords or working on their upcoming show, they lent a fresh air to our otherwise normal sense of comfortable ease. 

The first day we stopped at Cuyahoga National Park for a midday break and hike. Having graduated from high school  nearby, I remember walking this park years before with my grandmother pointing out every flower, mushroom or piece of fungus.  I find myself repeating that exact behavior.  Hi Grandma!

The hike’s touted waterfall was pretty much a disappointment.  Of course, having spent 4 plus months viewing this country’s finest natural features, we’ve gotten harder to please I suppose!  We were thankful to have stretched our legs, however, and had missed catching the visitor center before it closed and we took the scenic back roads and found our way to Mohican State Park where we spent the night.  Having traveled long hours and arriving near sunset, we were all happy to get settled and enjoyed fish tacos (and beer!) by lantern light. 

The next day had many more miles to cover so we started things out with a 6 mile uphill hike in the forest before it got too hot for comfort.  Sweaty and foot-sore, we waded in the nearby river before showering and getting back on the road.  Rob and I had learned that the ride is more enjoyable on the smaller roads but after what seemed like endless miles, he just wanted a straight shot to ANYWHERE! 

After struggling through little towns, traffic, a Costco gas detour and too many schedulled miles we finally arrived at My Old Kentucky Home campground as the sun set.  The big reward for our long day was the moonless night and a dark golf course where we saw the best stars of the journey so far!  Bingo!

Day three took us the scenic route the relatively short distance to Mammoth Cave National Park.  Excited to be back in our national park element we felt at home immediately.  With the visitor center a nice walk from the campsite, we familiarized ourselves before taking The History tour that afternoon. 

 I had forgotten how vast the Mammoth Cave network is.  With 405 miles of passages currently recorded, more are discovered and explored every year.  They expect that there may be hundreds more miles of cave yet to be sought out!  The tour was fun and informative and gave us a good overview of the cave.

It was raining when we exited our tour so Rob, Randy and Theresa headed back to our site for beer and frivolity while I took the opportunity to hike the area while the rain sprinkled the high canopy of sheltering trees overhead.  I was treated to many deer on the path as well as some nice vistas over the Green River.  One deer was so close that she startled as I passed and screamed!  I’ve never heard that before!  She was quite alarmed and kept up her racket well after she was out of my sight apparently alerting the locals that an intruder was present.

We had planned on a hike or another tour in the morning but decided we best knock the miles off the map before we began playing and we got on the road again.  Headed a more reasonable distance, we arrived at Cumberland Gap National Historic Park in plenty of time to get a site and head out for a wonderful 5 mile hike straight up to the Ridge and back. 

Our most strenuous hike so far, we marveled at how Randy and Theresa held their own.  We enjoyed countless wildflowers, mushrooms and streams while climbing and climbing hoping for the view at the top.  Hmm…THAT never happened!  Having reached what appeared to be the top, we found ourselves now following the Ridge in the same dense foliage we had climbed through!

Satisfied with the exercise and the beauty, we made it back to camp to celebrate our efforts with more alcohol and food (and in that order!)…a habit we had become quite good at.  Pork tenderloin, fresh sweet corn (scored roadside on the way) and sweet potatoes (great on the grill!) by candlelight was the order of the evening before rousing games of cards and more great stargazing finished out a wonderful day.

Still in search of a grand vista, we got an early start and hiked the 3 State trail before heading out of the park.  Not intending to over-extend ourselves, we worked up a sweat nonetheless but did make it to the site where Kentucky, Tennessee and Virginia all converge and even managed to sneak a peak of that vista we had been in search of.

We finished the long stretches of highway with a jaunt south to the Great Smokey Mountain Park with a special treat of a surprisingly great Mexican lunch along the way.  We had a reserved campsite which was a good thing because the Smokies are the most visited park in the whole system (double the visitors of the Grand Canyon!) and, to top it off, this was the solar eclipse weekend!

After 5 days in our little space, we were all just getting better at it vs what would be the obvious alternative.  Knowing we were on our final day, we crammed in all we could.  A stop at the visitor center, a wander along the nature trail, attending the campfire ranger program, delicious shish kabob dinner and cards until the wee hours…we did it all.

Theresa and Randy - always in character!

With our final hiking opportunity at hand, we set the alarm (?!) for an early start to conquer a six mile loop trail before making the airport run.  Collectively enjoying all of the hiking, we fell into the now familiar pace as we climbed the first half to descend to the riverfront for the return.  We finished the hike with just enough time to get cleaned up and share a champagne and leftovers feast before heading to the airport as our time came to an end.

Alone again after the family chapter is over, we are short weeks away from our return to where it all began.  Not sure of if I’m excited to be going home or sad for the journey’s end, the best choice for now is to stay the course and enjoy the moment.  And on we go…

The Kramer Family Chapter

After months of wonder and awe, the last two weeks have brought us back to reality.  Having grown up on Grand Island (an island between Buffalo, NY and Canada), the bulk of Rob’s family still resides in the area.  We arrived in Buffalo to “spring” Rob’s mother, Ina, from rehab after a month-long stint of pneumonia and following complications.

Ina’s usual residence is an independent living facility, Asbury, with beautiful grounds and lots of activities.  They welcomed the RV allowing us to be tucked in the corner of a parking lot and we were set for our stay.  Being parked right between rehab and her apartment, we had easy access to Ina as well as the benefit of long, hot showers and an exercise room which we took full advantage of.

A lovely, determined woman of Russian descent, Ina has spirit.   Stuck in a less than ideal rehab setting, however, she’s a fighter!  Not physically ready for discharge on our arrival, we finally affected her release four days later with the challenge of keeping her motivated and distracted in the mean time!

With 21 family members in the area, we have had plenty of family time.   We’ve seen five of our nieces and nephews with kids in tow and all of Rob’s siblings along with a spouse or two.  We’ve visited Rob’s sister daily who suffered a debilitating stroke last December and is in a specialized rehab facility across town.  Rob has taken special care of Sue encouraging her during PT sessions and doing more massage and exercise in between. 

We’ve had numerous opportunities to enjoy music and theatre with Rob’s brother Randy who owns and directs a musical theatre here.  He and his wife Theresa are talented entertainers who don’t hesitate to head for a piano when requested.  Practicing for an upcoming “A Guy, A Girl and A Piano” we were treated to a private performance!  We saw the current show, Pretty Funny, which might just be my favorite they’ve done and enjoyed the Rhythm Future Quartet, a gypsy jazz group, in the Cabaret.

Additionally, Randy and Theresa, treated us to a magical night at Frank Lloyd Wright’s Graycliff where they performed a reading of a play Randy wrote on the grounds of the beautiful property.  With cocktails, appetizers, theatre and a perfect sunset, we finished the evening spotting shooting stars overhead.

Other distractions included taking Rob’s niece, Jill, out for happy hour on her birthday.  Jill has three children all with autism.  Jack is 7 and the twins are 5 and they’re full of energy!  Jill needed (and more than deserved!) a break so Rob took on the kids while Jill and I played.  With a text string including pleas of “help!” to “yikes”, Uncle Bob had a good run of it!

Excited to see Ina gaining strength and endurance over the next week or so, we took our first big excursion and headed for the movies to see Dunkirk.  Not liking wheelchairs at all, when she grew tired she sat on her walker and asked for a push.  That’s how we were as we headed out of the theatre when we hit a raised light strip in the way and took a spill head over heels.  Tragically, the fall resulted in a cracked vertebrae and Ina was back in the hospital.

We spent the next four days in the hospital waiting for tests and finally a procedure to repair the crack along with an older injury that was found in the process.  Kept comfortable with the help of modern pharmacology, Ina was generally in good spirits.  The procedure itself caused new pain and frustrations but proved successful in the end and as we prepare to get back on the road, she’s back on her feet and gaining strength every day.

Unaccustomed to the more sedentary lifestyle and the systematic meals of this less-than-active life here, we’ve taken to the Asbury gym, walks to the park and long bike rides on the extensive bike trails in the area.  With a bike trail system nearby that connects to several more that stretch the length of the Erie Canal, biking has taken on a new glimmer and inspired some “next adventure” ponderings.  Who knows where that may lead?!

Even more family and fun began when Rob’s brother, Rich, arrived in town as Ina was discharged.  He is in place to spend some time with her while Randy and Theresa join us for the next stretch of our journey.  Having stayed for the longest period since our April departure, Rob and I were almost giddy about getting back on the road even as we said goodbye at the big family birthday party at Jill’s house today.  

With Ina reporting her best night’s sleep in months, our first traveling guests on board and more National Parks on the itinerary, we enter our last leg with excitement despite the reality of the journey winding down.  No matter, though.  This chapter may be coming to a close but the book is still open and waiting for where the next adventure will lead!