A Welcoming Boondock August 24 - 26

Before leaving on this trip, I had heard of a new website connecting folks who RV willing to share their property with other traveling RVers.  We initially planned to use a Boondockers Welcome property near Montreal but migraines and a repair job got in the way.  Our second attempt was to be in Murray Harbor on the southeastern tip of PEI.

With a planned destination at days end, we braved some ugly weather and headed to town to check out Charlottetown.  Again parking in an offseason school, we walked through lovely Victoria Park and around the waterfront enjoying the gorgeous views and great city planning.  I was impressed with the beautifully designed pools, ball fields, hiking trails and playgrounds (which included a series of larger than life outdoor musical instruments to play!) 

The waterfront and downtown area kept us entertained for a good while before we hiked back to the rig and our drive to inland PEI with a few breweries promised along the way.  We stopped in Montague to find a cute waterfront with fiddlers onstage and a parking spot just steps away from Bogside Brewing.  With beer in hand we ordered a most unusual lunch for southerners in the land of lobster … barbeque!  Gotta give it to the chef, this guy knew his craft!  We had the special of handmade smoked sausage and beans which was artfully done!  Another beer and an order of fries and we were ready to try Copper Bottom for their local brews!

Full and entertained, we hit the road for our night in Murray Harbor.  Another remote location, we traversed the tiny roads to what seemed the middle of nowhere.  We arrived to find Larry out front waving us in and we got settled in the driveway with no complications.  We took a few moments to get to know our host and his wife, Wendy, before taking a walk around the area enjoying the inlet river at sunset.

The next morning dawned sunny and pleasant and we couldn’t ignore the trailhead for a spur of the Confederation trail just around the corner.  After warming up with fresh baked muffins, we grabbed the bikes and hit the trail.  The trail was part of an island-wide web of trails reclaimed from the original island railroad. 

We rode 22km (15 or so miles) to Wood Island where we’d booked a ferry to Nova Scotia the next morning.   It was fun to walk around the little embarkation area with visitor center, café, candy store and liquor store (of all things!) before having to get back on the bikes for the return trip.  22km to return.  It all sounded like a reasonable goal – and succeed we did – but I must say not without a few cramps and even an ill thought or two by the end!!

Larry and Wendy had mentioned a community event that afternoon and we arrived back in time to join them.  We walked the block or two to the community center for fresh steamed mussels and a corn boil.  None of this comes at face value!  Those mussels were perfectly steamed and sauced and the corn … THE CORN!  Everyone was so excited that the Bloom farm corn was in and we could see why!  This was just like I remember from being a child in Wisconsin the day the corn was picked.  OH SO SO DELICIOUS!  It tasted like summer.  And the color yellow.  And like CORN – but with no starch and with a satisfying pop as your teeth came in for each bite. 

The rest of the day was spent with drinks on the porch   Wendy nearly demanded I enjoy a real shower and I was more than happy to oblige.  There truly is nothing like a good shower after enough nights on water conservation detail in the RV.  I luxuriated in a strong endless hot water shower that was the perfect end to the day.

sharing stories and lifetimes with our hosts, finishing up little details in the rig and enjoying the pace of a safe place to stay and nothing pressing to do.

After another blissful, quiet and dark night in our Boondocker home and we bid farewell to Larry and Wendy setting our sights for the destination that was the inspiration for this whole trip – Nova Scotia.

The Friendly Island August 24

We had heard tales.  Between language barriers and the lack of beer to offer along the way, this trip is a much more solitary experience.  Rumor had it that Prince Edward Island and Nova Scotia would find a change of hospitality and it was apparent as soon as we crossed the bridge!

We travel without any set itinerary.  Every day we see where we ended up and see where we decide next to wander.  I suppose that’s how we’ve ended up at so many WalMarts!  No matter, we looked at the map and started to create the day.  First stop a bike ride into Summerside before taking the LITTLE roads to an Acadian community along the coast and the Cap-Egmont glass houses. 

The glass houses were a private family endeavor with amazing gardens and flowers all around and it made the detour worthwhile.  Following our loop back, we end back in Summerside for the friendliest gas station shop EVER!  Offering propane filled, tanks dumped, water filled and fuel – our new friend Sonya was like a personal assistant!  By the end she had even offered us her land to stay on!

Taking Sonya’s recommendation, we headed for the eastern coast and Cavendish.  We found the roads to be small and unpredictable at best and took quite the beating along the way.  Undeterred, we did find Cavendish – well sort of!  The towns were so small and we’re so big, we’d find ourselves through them before we even knew where we were! 

We did end up at a touristy version of Cavendish and after stopping to support local commerce were pleased to find a National Park trail right across the road.  Hopping again on our bikes, we found the trailhead and wandered the seashore, the dunes and the forest along the way. 

The sun started to move closer and closer to the horizon and we still didn’t have a place to stay!  Figuring the right thing would certainly show itself (it always does!), we jumped back onto the road.  We found another few towns, a very out of the way surprise detour and then ended back up at the next National Park! 

Being a Friday, there was no room at any campground and we considered just camping in the parking lot but chickened out, not wanting to be known as interlopers from down south! 

With daylight at a near end, we made one last attempt at finding an abandoned lot, a cozy seaside church or pub or ANYWHERE we could park for the night.  Word here is – if it doesn’t say no overnight parking, it's allowed!  But we were out of luck!  With one last ditch effort to unsuccessfully contact a hostel for use of their parking lot, we saw there was – wait for it – a WALMART in Charlottetown only 18 minutes from where we were! 

Thankful to have a reachable destination no matter how unexpected or off-itinerary, we headed back to civilization and were welcomed back into the loving arms of our parking lot home once again!

Tidal Bore and Festival Acadian August 23

Next up, Moncton.  A much larger city lying near the Bay of Fundy and at the doorstep to the Prince Edward Island Bridge as well as Nova Scotia, it is a town of commerce and tourism.  With an intelligent road system incorporating a lot of traffic circles, we found our way to the WalMart that just so happened to be right on the waterfront not far from the center of town.

With a lot of RVs already there, we didn’t hesitate to find a spot and get ready for some exploring.  Today was to be another bike day so they were unloaded and we were off!  We followed a trail that led along the waterfront, right through the downtown area and continued on to parts of a long continental trail system.  We enjoyed the expanse of muddy river bed, the fields of wildflowers and the beautiful day.

Today was near the last day of a two week festival/event celebrating Acadian culture.  Comprised of descendants of the original French immigrants to Nova Scotia in the early 1600’s, the Acadians are now scattered between southeastern New Brunswick, Prince Edward Island and Louisiana.  With my Mom in New Orleans, we’ve come to enjoy Acadian culture and were excited to check out the event. 

Waiting for the fest to open, we wandered a bit then realizing that the dry riverbed was about to fill quickly with the arrival of the next tidal bore.  We went to the river as more and more people gathered for the twice daily event.  Sitting on the rocky shore, we watched the turn of the river.  It was first visible with Niagara Falls type mist being visible from around the bend and not long after the wall of water making   Some days large enough for surfers to be riding the wake, today was more tame with the four foot swell of tide looking small amidst the awaiting landscape.  A four foot wall of water was still something to behold and it came in with a speed and force that demanded caution and respect!
its appearance.

We spent the rest of the day at the festival.  So much smaller than any we’ve attended in Louisiana, it was a true gathering for the Acadian people.  We saw a mesmerizing performance piece by a silent dance company, several musical acts (a favorite coming from our familiar Louisiana stomping grounds) and were welcomed with kindness by the small crowd.  We met a lovely new friend, Minon, who filled us in on all things Acadian and had an impromtu portrait sketched by cheerful Lucie.  Sadly, the food did not impress having become used to the best of the best in New Orleans! 

We finished the night wandering into town in search of fish   With someone’s first recommendation being nothing more than a fast food chain, we did a quick about face and headed straight for the first Irish pub we could find!  With a Guinness and our appetite sated, we enjoyed the ride back to our parking lot home looking forward to tomorrow’s adventure.
and chips.

Easterly Path August 20 - 22

 Still making our way across New Brunswick, we picked destinations by the drive time to get there.  The next two hour stop was Fredericton, the capital of New Brunswick.  Having had enough parking lots for the time being, we chose a Provincial Park in the area. 

The scenery does not disappoint in this area of Canada.  With large rolling landscape, rich vegetation with lakes and rivers scattered throughout, the drive was far from boring.  Arriving at the entrance gate I was curious to learn the proper pronunciation of the name Mactaquac.  Being in French speaking country I figured is had a lovely sound when done right.  Uh, nope!  Just like its spelled, I almost laughed when she spoke it!

Any, I digress.  The park was wonderful!  We had a site one the grass near the trees and we got settled ever thankful for the soft ground and quite all around.  We’ve gotten to be pros at setting up camp and made quick work of it before grabbing lunch and checking out our surroundings.  Wandering the grounds we found a lovely lake and swimming area, a small marina and diverse vegetation. 

The nature trail was lined with wood chips, soft underfoot and quiet, and we headed out to investigate.  With four different sections in a linear sequence, we followed one to the next finding wildflowers, a birch tree forest, a beaver pond, human height cattails and more.  Even I was spent after the final loop and covering over 6 miles!

Feeling worthy of some frivolity, we enjoyed the afternoon sunshine with refreshing vodka creations.  We wandered further into the campground finding kids for rob to throw baskets with and a spot for me to wade in the water.  Finally hearing English again was settling and we had evening conversation with campsite neighbors by candlelight.  It was a relaxed night having our feet on the grass and no noise from a surrounding retail crush.

Tempted to stay another night, we knew we had a lot of great adventures ahead and we broke camp (but not a minute before the allotted time!)  Fredericton was only a half hour drive away and the WalMart was a short distance from the center of town.  We arrived, found a spot and hopped on our bike the short couple miles – down toward the river.  (hold that thought!)

The afternoon was spent wandering the riverfront with its converted railway to pedestrian bridge.  The web touted numerous breweries which were calling Rob’s name and even a cidery or two for me.  Red Rover Cidery came first and we sat outside the friendly establishment catching the guards returning from the changing ceremony nearby. 

Seeking out the closest – and best – brewery, we walked to the other end of the “strip” to Graystone.  Clearly a thriving brewery, they had over 20 choices on tap, a food truck in the lot, a wonderful outside deck and construction on what was going to be an impressive indoor expanse for the Canadian winters.  We sat in the sun enjoying a beer and meeting the guys on the next stools. 

Jeff and Adam were local bank investment counselors on a rare day off.  Conversation covered the gamut – breweries, economy, health system comparisons – you name it!  By the time we parted ways, they even invited Rob to a charity golf tournament the next day!  And we found our way back to the bikes for the ride back to the pavement…

This is where we recollect that held thought.  The ride back was three miles straight UP HILL!!  I swear this uphill biking thing is NOT my strong suit!  But bike we did.  And I can actually say I was kind proud of myself – after I recovered!  Thinking all that deserved a nice dinner ala someone else but me, I was disappointed when the sky opened up and we stayed in our cocoon for the duration.  Chalk it all up to the adventure, there is much more fun on the agenda yet to come!

Points Beyond Aug 18 - 20

We had a final breakfast together and got Randy and Theresa on the road before breaking camp.  With a lot of housekeeping to do after guests and heavy rain, we had our hands full for a while.  Once everything was dry and back in place, the water tank filled and the “other” tanks emptied, we headed out.  Because we had no idea where the next week would take us or what we’d encounter, we made a final stop at Costco.  We also had to go BACK TO IKEA and grab some goodies Theresa had introduced us to and we took advantage of their great café prices, having lunch and another sinful sundae!

Then we headed north.  There’s no direct route between Quebec and the eastern coast.  Maine’s un-navigable landmass is in the way and we needed to head north until we made it all the way above Maine before taking an easterly turn.  Rob wears out on driving after a couple hours which took us to Riviere du Loup – and another parking lot for the night.

Crazy thing, the parking lot was FULL of RV’s!  It seriously looked like a motorhome dealership!  There was a country music festival going on in the adjacent lot and apparently WalMart was the place to stay!  The only way we stood out was our SC plates and pretty much everyone stayed to themselves. 

We took advantage of the area and biked over to a park touting a good hike and a waterfall.  A very hilly area along the Saint Lawrence Seaway, it was a fun and challenging bike ride.  The park was great with a spiderweb of trails to explore from a cedar forest to a field of wildflowers.  The waterfall was in fact a controlled water source but was beautiful nonetheless.  After our energizing hike, we biked the area a little more, enjoying the fog over the seaway and the beautiful mountains lining the western shore before returning to our parking lot seclusion for the night. 

This trip is so unlike our last.  In our entire five months on the road previously, we stayed at commercial campgrounds twice and WalMarts twice.  It makes us appreciate the abundance of parks I didn’t realize were so unusual.  City, County, State, National Parks, not to mention all of the other BLM and ACE properties we stayed at … wow.  But we also weren’t following a path of rendezvous in specific locations either.  No matter, this is new and different.

Needing to get across New Brunswick without any major attractions along the way, we chose Grand Falls as our next destination.  Stopping along the way at a local Fromagerie, we tasted and bought some yummy cheeses to take on the road.  Being ever closer to the New Brunswick border, we even heard English spoken a time or two!  The biggest difference was finally seeing road signs we didn’t have to guess at!

Grand Falls is an interesting little town.  Essentially desolate, we saw only a handful of people in the entire downtown area with near all of the stores on “Broadway” being closed midday as well.  The falls were even quite ugly on first sight.  With a hydro electric dam holding much of the water back, the downstream side looked like a lunar landscape – an unpleasant jumble of large rock.  And then we got to the gorge.

The water volume at this time of year is near its lowest point but the falls apparently flow with 90% the volume of Niagara Falls during the spring runoff!  The gorge was something to behold with the minimal but still flowing water feeding a deep canyon of carved rock that meandered through town like a serpent.  We followed the trail of lookout points over a several mile stretch, taking in all of the unique views at every turn. 

With storms in the forecast for the evening and night, we headed back to our home away from home.  Seeing a berry stand on the way, we found the most luscious fresh fruit imaginable and bought some fresh picked raspberries.  These were like I remember picking at my Wisconsin aunt’s pick your own berry farm as a child.  Sweet and flavorful like I haven’t had since then, Rob (who has never been a raspberry fan) was even sold!

Tucked inside with the storms having arrived, I made a full menu for dinner, steaming up the windows.  As we sat for dinner, the sun peaked out as the rain continued and I just KNEW there had to be a rainbow.  Mother nature did not disappoint!  A day of nature’s best, the sky was filled from end to end with a richly colored full expanse.  I guess Mother Nature doesn’t need a campground to make her magic!

Heart of Quebec City August 15-18

The next meetup with Pat and Jay was to be Quebec City.  We also had Rob’s brother and sister in law – Randy and Theresa – joining us there.  Having guests onboard is a cozy experience and we were sure to book something with a bit more personality than yet another WalMart for the occasion.  Rob and I headed out early for the fairly good stretch of road ahead.  I got some driving practice in along the way and the conditions and traffic didn’t present any obstacles.

The campground was not far to the south of the city and touted lake activities and many services.  We were greeted by the friendly proprietor with perfect English skills and we got ourselves set up and ready for company.  Randy and Theresa arrived shortly thereafter and we set out to investigate the campground.  With much less to offer than expected, we decided to take advantage of their car and head to a hike we found nearby. 

The park was pretty amazing with lots of trails and a grand set up for outdoor sports and services.  A gorgeous Olympic sized pool and every kind of ball field (including tether ball); camp was still in session when we arrived.  We got on the trail and enjoyed a great hike, stretching our legs after hours on the road. 

That evening I cooked up a quick stir fry as we all caught up and Randy helped Rob untangle the medusan head of equipment and cords for the tv on board.  We found a copy of Bridesmaids in the dvd player and all fell into the distraction in good company.

The next morning began with heavy rain and bakery delivery!  The big surprise upon check in was the hosts offering fresh French pastries.  Not knowing entirely what I was ordering, we received quite the abundance of delicious (and naughty) treats!  I’d like to say we sampled but we did a solid job of consuming every chocolate delight and a full flaky croissant to boot!  If you ever come across something called a Choco-Suisse just order it!  You won’t be disappointed!

Randy and Theresa had spent a night in Quebec City before our arrival so they knew the ropes and we parked and into the old town without drama.  A quaint and beautiful area feeling exactly like being in Europe, nothing more than wandering was needed for entertainment.  We met up with Pat and Jay and continued our exploration.  The multi-level city was fascinating and little surprises and grand vistas at every turn.

Being that Theresa is a champion beer lover and Rob and Randy were willing compadres, there was no contest as to what to do for the afternoon.  A beer festival was being held on the waterfront a short walk from Old Town.  Expensive but fun were the descriptors for the event.  With our beer steins and tokens in hand we set out to conquer French craft beer!  Not being nearly the connoisseur as the others, I scoped out food options, danced with some  

servers and found myself a righteous craft distillery’s gin and tonic!

Day drinking took its toll as we wandered that afternoon.  After the mandatory viewing of the famous and resplendent Hotel Frontenac, we looked for a coffee pick me up.  Before finding the needed café, we found the park … and the grass … and a nap!  And then we found another drink!!!  Not a day of behaving!  We met up with
Patricia and Jay one last time, took time for another photo and said our goodbyes before heading back to camp.

Making up for bad behavior, we set our sights on another hike the next morning.  Driving to a park along the Saint Lawrence Seaway, we walked for 5 miles through a lovely waterfront community, a state park and up and down massive staircases leading to railroad trestles over the water. 

With rain in the forecast the balance of the day, we took advantage of a shopping adventure through the IKEA not far from the campground.  Rob had never been and Randy and Theresa came with a list to accomplish and we made good humor of the consumer entertainment – complete with $1 ice cream as a finale!

With access to their car, we took advantage of a grocery stop and finished the day with a wonderful barbeque dinner under the awning in the rain – complete with s’mores ala grill flame!  Card games on the picnic table in candlelight and another silly movie and we called it a day and a grand time together.

And as quick as it started, we were all headed back to our own individual adventures!

A High Time! August 14

Patricia and I have been friends pretty much since we first met on Hilton Head about 35 years ago.  We were both small business owners operating in the same shopping plaza.  I suppose that was our shared interest back in those days but our friendship has grown over the years to be one of my most cherished.  Ten years ago we started a tradition.   Our birth years are 10 years apart.  During our 50/60 birthday year, we decided we needed to do something new and exciting and we went skydiving together!

2018/19 was our next decade year and we were determined not to let it slip by without our big event.  When we found that our trips were crossing each other in Canada, we started looking for just the right thing.  Voila!  (that’s nearly my only French, by the way!)  We stumbled onto the Montreal Mongolfier-fest … the Balloon Festival!   We reconvened in Ste Jean sur Richelieu for the big event. 

Rob and I arrived early and got settled in – yup – yet ANOTHER WalMart.  Martin, owner of Montreal Mongolfiere, came to pick Rob and I up and take us to the festival where we enjoyed the afternoon watching kids on the endless rides and enjoying the beautiful day.  As we waited for Pat and Jay to arrive in their shuttle, we stopped at the virtual reality tent where we got a taste of what was to come – virtually! 

Finally the appointed time was upon us.  Martin and partner, Kati, were a total delight to ride with.  Also along were Patricia’s friend Mariana and two gals from Romania – a basket full of great women – and Martin!  What fun we had!  With great care at every step, we got the balloon full, the basket upright and us all loaded. 

It happened so fast.  Only 15 minutes earlier, the field was barely more than a parking lot of trucks and trailers!  When the festival director announced that conditions were safe, the owners wasted no time and 85 balloons were unloaded and prepped for take-off.  What a sight!  Spectacular, colorful creations expanded and took off in a fraction of an hour.

We were up!  With the whoosh of the propane fire and shouts of excitement we rose higher and higher becoming more and more awestruck.  Martin was a thoroughly professional pilot but was not in the least bit short of personality!  An entertainer from minute one, he kept us intrigued with different experiences.  We rose high enough to touch the clouds and low enough to grab leaves from the trees!  We caught different winds at different levels and traveled over farms and rivers and forest. 

We floated for more than an hour before it was time to touch down.  Balloons have no way besides riding currents to determine direction.  Every ride they make is unique with landing being planned via radio to the catch team during the flight.  We set down in a cleared farm field and Martin pulled out a celebratory bottle of champagne which was enjoyed by all.

We hopped in the van for the ride back to the festival and our waiting husbands with a grand experience under our belts.  A fitting end to the decade behind and a great start to the one ahead!

Montreal Meetup Aug 13 – 14

We made it out of the woods, so to speak, and were back on the road headed to Montreal.  First order of business was crossing the border.  Being in an RV and carrying essentially our whole life with us, we weren’t sure what we’d be met with at the border.  We clearly were carrying more than the written allotment of alcohol – we had a three month supply! – and we heard lots of tales of searches over fruits or vegetables being on board.  Well, there was no problem with customs!  A lot of questions but nothing that caused concern and we happily got back on the road.

Montreal was not a long drive from Burlington but between the border crossing and the traffic it seemed an age to arrive!  The roads leading to the bustling city were ALL under construction.  REALLY!  Look it up.  Montreal is undergoing a massive infrastructure project and I swear EVERY major road was being rebuilt from end to end.  Traffic slowed to a crawl and in our monster of a vehicle it was more of a challenge than ever.

We had arranged to stay at a property to the northwest of the city but, having taken too long to get into the city itself, we found the closest WalMart and called it quits.  I have to say that WalMart is proving to be invaluable on this particular trip.  Without state and national parks at every destination, they provide a great, free and safe stopover at a moment’s notice.  This one was perfectly located right on a major metro line and we wasted no time.

The big excitement of Montreal was meeting my dearest friend Patricia and her husband Jay there.  Of course, we had already missed over a day of our planned rendezvous.  We got into what we thought was the heart of all things Montreal but had missed our mark by a couple stops.  Getting out into the big city with no idea where to go or what to do, we set our sights toward the waterfront.  We did finally make it to the old city where all the city’s charm lay. 

Patricia and Jay were having dinner with friends in a restaurant nearby and we dropped in as they signed their checks.  We all took in the city’s beauty through the evening, stopping for ice cream, wandering the waterfront and peeking into little shops along the way.  Parting ways with their friends, we further enjoyed the music in the streets and made our way to the Notre Dame cathedral, always a sight at night.

Getting back to our “home at the Mart” was an easy subway ride and we called it a day with an early start planned for the morning.  The plan was to find a wonderful French café for coffee and chocolate croissants.  After a relatively peaceful night, we jumped back on the subway and headed for a neighborhood said to be “the right place to go”.  It didn’t quite turn out that way and we walked a seemingly endless distance before ending right back in old town!

We do find that big cities are just not our thing on these trips.  With parking difficult, reasonable campgrounds harder to come by and no alternate method of transport than our big rig, cities are filled with more obstacles than fun.  The big event planned for our time in the area was a balloon festival happening 30km outside of town.  With that in mind, we gave up on maneuvering the city and got back on the road.  Yup, right through all of the nightmare construction and crazy traffic, we backtracked to what we hoped would be a highlight of our journey.