No Disappointments Here!

In the Grand Canyon we were thinking we had seen the best of the best, then we move on to Bryce that was wonderfully other-worldly and great fun.  The next stop just a hundred miles away was Zion National Park.  We had to backtrack to get there so the scenery was a repeat most of the way but then we turned the corner toward Zion on Highway 9 and the scenery that gives Zion its name opened before us.

With huge sandstone cliffs of every color, a mountain engraved with a natural checkerboard, the vegetation growing ever more diverse…each element added to the magic.  I keep telling myself I’ll stop taking pictures from the coach, that they just can’t give the real impression, but it’s impossible to pass through such amazing country and not feel you HAVE to capture it somehow.  Along the 20 mile stretch we had mountain goats stop traffic, we passed through a mile long tunnel that was blasted through the mountain in 1929 and we stopped to view and had another Holy City beer encounter!

 Zion is the oldest and busiest of the National Parks.  We came well before the official season began but the double long shuttle buses were already full.  I can’t even begin to imagine how busy this will be in a couple of months.  Having dropped over 4000ft in elevation from Bryce, the weather was a much appreciated sunny and warm and we found a campsite (a story in itself!), filled our water tanks, got settled and headed out to explore.

There are nine stops on the shuttle system in Bryce and we headed for the furthest out and hopped our way back.  There is some form of hike ranging from easy to “challenging” at just about every stop.  We took three of them throughout the afternoon.  One was a meander along the beautiful Virgin River that cut Zion Canyon.  The “Narrows”, a famous skinny canyon hiking experience, was closed due to high water risks but the hike was just what we needed.

Then we moved on to the next stop and to take the short half mile hike up to beautiful hanging gardens.  Zion is still a desert but it has more water than the Grand Canyon or Bryce and the flora is captivating.  With delicate mountain columbine growing next to a hearty cactus, the contrast is strikingly beautiful.  In the hanging gardens, moss and fern grow as water trickles down the mountain from above giving the feel of a tropical forest.

You'll have to search this one for the climbers -
and this was with full magnification!

Here is also where we followed the upturned gaze of a crowd of tourists to find mountain climbers 2/3 of the way up a shockingly vertical cliff.  Being barely a pin dot on the mountainside from our viewpoint, when put in the camera viewfinder at its most extended setting and then blown up further upon viewing, you could just barely make out their shapes – this was a HUGE cliff, y’all!  This managed to hold ours and everyone else’s attention for a good bit before we could peel ourselves away.

Our final hike was another couple miles up to the Emerald Pools.  A bit more challenging than the previous two, this wound its way up a side canyon to another water meets rock sanctuary.  Crazy tree frogs created a chorus that echoed through the hills as water found its way down and around cliff faces for another magical moment. 

The evening was spent enjoying cheese, crackers and beer in the blissful warmth of the setting sun with the towering cliffs all around.  The stars came out to dazzle and the campground offered a peaceful moonlit stroll.

Without a campsite for the following night, we moved to the parking lot to take advantage of seeing the last few sights of Zion before moving on.  We biked the riverside path to the visitor center and watched the always informative video, took another short hike and had lunch in the RV before getting back on the road toward Las Vegas.

We had heard on several occasions not to miss Valley of Fire State Park on the way so we set our compass there.  Just 30 miles from Vegas, it seemed a good place to stop before the neon lights and energy of the big city.  With the temps climbing into the 90s and not a cloud in the sky, we find ourselves back in the desert climes. 

Valley of Fire isn’t visible upon approach and the area which is just west of Lake Mead and the Hoover Dam area was unimpressive until you actually arrive.  Piles of bright red sandstone seem to have been dropped like sand castles in the middle of the desert.  With miles and miles of them in the contrastingly different surrounding landscape, the area truly is a surprise.

Our campsite neighbors, John and Kathleen, were relaxing in the afternoon heat when we arrived and inquired about – what else – BEER!  We hit it off immediately and didn’t think twice about avoiding a hike in the blazing temps to instead make new friends over a beverage.  One beer led to several with these craft beer lovers and we wiled the hours in good conversation and an eventual campfire feast of bacon and eggs under the moonlight.

This morning, when retrieving our chairs at John and Kathleen's, they invited us for a drive to the more unusual areas of the park and we were treated to more spectacular nature.  This area looks like some giant made a giant sand castle with sands of different colors.  Layers of mountain in white, yellow, green, red and purple - what a treat!  Thanks John and Kathleen!  On our journey measured in friends, they have added great measure!

We're back on the road with Las Vegas in our sights.  Who knows what stories are yet to come?