We've Arrived! August 26 - 28

The ferry was a new experience for us and we were up early to be sure to arrive on time.  Efficient as clockwork, we got lined up in our lane between all the other “big rigs” and waited to board.  Once squeezed into our spot, we went up top for the passage and wiled away the time at the information booth and talking with a lovely British couple, David and Emma.

It was a nice morning and the Nova Scotia coastline beckoned with its rolling hills and sheer cliffs.  We arrived in Caribou before 11 and got right on the road headed for the Ceilidh Trail (pr: kaylee) on Cape Breton Island hoping to score some Celtic music at day’s end.  

Along the way we stopped for lunch and today’s hike at Beaver Mountain Park where we conquered a less than manicured trail but a decent challenge and a good stretch.  We continued on enjoying the scenery along the small coastline roads up the west side of Cape Breton passing numerous little towns (not even a stop sign!) before pulling into a spot that promised evening music and had parking for our big lug.  Lo and behold, there beside us sat David and Emma!

Still a bit ahead of music time, they came in and we shared a beer and our stories from the day before heading to The Red Shoe.  We got the last table in sight of the fiddle/guitar duo who put out quite a bit of music with their two instruments.  They had the place tapping and clapping in no time, ever increasing as the drinking continued. 

Learning that David hailed from Belfast as a child and learned Celtic dance in grade school, we prodded him to show his skills and he thrilled the whole crowd with some great steps and a few high kicks as a bonus!  Such fun!  Already late for their reservation at a campground still over an hour away, they left us to settle in for the night at the community center parking area and they headed out hoping our paths might still cross in the days ahead.

Rob and I went back over for the Monday night jam session that began at 830 and stayed until the instruments were packed back into their cases.  It was an amazing event with dozens of musicians of all ages joining in.  From fiddle to piano to celtic flute, it’s especially great to see young people so love their culture and carry on its traditions. 

Waking the next morning to miserable weather, we decided to completely change our course and not venture into the Cape Breton Highlands Park.  Reportedly the highlight of a trip to Nova Scotia, we didn’t want to miss any of the park to lousy weather.  We instead crossed the island and made our way up the eastern coast in the driving rain and took a campsite at the far end of the Cabot Trail to await the next day’s promise of better weather. 

The day was spent being practical.  Laundry, cleaning and a game or two ensued when we noticed a break in the rain and we chanced a wander around.  We discovered a trail to the waterfront and found nature’s power on display with magnificent waves and wild spray all topped off with the gift of a rainbow!  By day’s end, we had witnessed 4 different rainbows, all unique – one shallow and wide, one high and bright, one double and another with each color boldly displayed! 

When David and Emma pulled in at sundown, our day was complete.  They joined us for drinks and cards and at night’s end we parted as friends.  The next day dawned bright and beautiful and we showed David and Emma the way to the beach before parting ways the final time as we headed out for the Cabot Trail with anticipation.