Yosemite, the Meeting of Waters

We headed to Yosemite not knowing what was in store.  It was Mother’s Day weekend, we were arriving on Saturday and the park is notoriously busy without those factors!  So we drove as close to the entrance as possible before stopping for the night in an Elks Lodge parking lot – does the variety never end?!  A night with an unusual power connection (we live on solar usually) meant charging everything in sight from computers to razors to cameras and the toothbrush and we had a special treat of a movie ‘night. 

Yosemite was again another breathtaking experience.  We entered the park from the windy and steep south entrance working our way to the spectacular Yosemite Valley.  The first stop was famous Bridalveil Falls where we realized how gorgeous but crowded the park was.  Squeezing our 30 foot home in a not quite made for it space, we managed to catch a peak at the falls before getting back into the stream of cars. 

We didn’t have a campsite and headed to the office to get on the wait list - #35!  The lottery happens at exactly 3pm when you gather as they call off names on the list matching to campsites left unclaimed for the day.  Realizing our chances were slim, we jumped right into exploring all we could in the 8 hours we had before needing to be on the road and over the mountains before dark.

With the shuttle buses filled to capacity, we headed out on foot.  Wandering in the midst of lush green meadows, towering granite cliffs and spectacular waterfalls we worked our way around the valley floor.  Stopping at the visitor center to watch the parks movie we learned that water was the most valuable visual asset of the park. 

Being spring after a huge snowpack from the winter, the water this year was plentiful.  The named falls were particularly awesome but it seemed that water was flowing over every rock and down every crevice in sight.  We climbed the trail to the beautiful lower Yosemite Falls with the massive upper falls sending torrents of water just above.    The rivers below were engorged and the surrounding area covered in rich fresh green vegetation.   

Having easily wandered away our first 5 hours, we headed back to check on our campsite fortune.  The tension was building as each person walked up to the gathering place.  Some names were on the list from 4 in the morning - #1-20, to be exact.  The rest of the 40 names in waiting were just as anxious.  “#1, Smith”.  Congrats, here’s your site!  #2 … no show, #3…no show – and on.  As the list progressed, applause started to break out as no shows were called and the excitement built.   Turns out that everyone that showed up filled exactly the number of sites available!   SCORE!!!

We moved Moonshadow to her home for the night feeling incredibly fortunate and excited.  Of course we instantly started making Holy City friends.  Our campsite host, Dale, and his wife along with just arriving Dees and Jen, full timer RVers, joined us for a celebratory beer before we finished the day with yet another hike to Mirror Lake with water like glass and abounding birds and wildlife.

The next morn Dees and Jen joined us for our final hike to Vernal Falls on the Mist Trail.  Mist, nothing!  We hiked up the gorgeous canyon along yet another raging river up 1000 feet

until the mist was so thick it was more like a shower!  Another gorgeous sight.  Water cascading over massive granite cliffs and crashing on rocks below.  Rainbows appearing and disappearing each moment.  An amazing finale to another amazing park.

On to the Sequoias

The days seem to pass so fast as do my thoughts.  With constant new sights, people and experiences, I find myself continually “writing” blogs in my head.  The magic of the different flowers on each hike.  The marvel of the natural wonders of the landscape and geology we view.  The joy of new relationships with people of all ages and walks of life.  How do I move through all of these experiences and not write full chapters every few days?!

I laugh as I write and realize that I nearly missed two days in my rush to get you to the Sequoias!  A quick recount has us parting ways with Jack and Marcia with intentions of skipping the parks in California due to complications driving our coach on the mountain roads and gaining access to them in the still early season.  We headed out the back exit of Death Valley with our new itinerary  An impromptu stop at the Indian Wells Brewery where our path was due to head northward away from the parks ended up being a chance opportunity to meet up with Jack and Marcia one last time as they turned the other direction. 

Indian Wells was completely fun!  Sharing our Holy City wares with their brew-master, we had a great time tasting their creations and enjoying their fun brewery.  With time for further conversation with our new friends and a little more research, we found a way to make the lower California parks work and changed our course yet again!  Onward to Sequoia with Jack and Marcia once again in tandem!

We spent the night near Bakersfield, CA at a county park where J&M pulled in after us having stopped for fuel along the way.  We knew something was wrong when their rig sounded like they were dragging tin cans behind them.  While they waited for emergency repair, we made the best of the situation and had a happy hour – or two.  The next morning, the repairman finally arrived and it ended up they had a bent axle that would need a replacement.

Without an end time in sight, we sadly left our friends with their broken axle behind yet again and worked our way through California traffic and up the foothills to a steep curvy climb into Kings Canyon National Park later in the day.  We luckily found a campsite and got settled before dark with enough firewood gathered to have our first campfire – YES!  With the temp dropping fast to the 40 degree low for the night, our fire kept us toasty until we headed for our pile of blankets.

The next morning, we wasted no time and hit the nearby trail to see our first Sequoia.  I was completely unprepared for what we saw.  Towering giants, these sturdy and powerful beings are nothing short of breathtaking.  Standing as tall as 280 feet, with circumferences of 105+ feet, it takes 20 adults with arms extended to reach around the trunk!  If the granddaddies (think 1500-3000 years!) were “empty”, they would hold 37 million ping pong balls!  Taking pictures is difficult as a lens can barely take in the expanse.  (the top of the 1/3 of the tree is cut off on the picture here !)

We spent the balance of the day driving through the spectacular

scenery of Kings Canyon and Sequoia parks.  Driving the twisting mountain roads required 30 miles an hour for the 27 miles to the Giant Forest Museum, the General Sherman tree, sighting 2 brown bears in the meadow and an all around great day of nature exploring.

To add to all the fun, we heard from Jack and Marcia who were repaired and moving again and were joining us for the night on their way to Yosemite for their Mother’s Day meet up with their kids.   After leaving their camper south of the park, they drove in with their truck late in the afternoon.  We wiled the remainder of the day away with apps, dinner and dessert ala Laurie and deer grazing in the meadow behind us then topped off the night with another roaring fire.

The night was a cold 30 something degrees but was cozy with extra bodies aboard and we were all amazingly comfortable!   Rising around 630, we had a warm breakfast and were out to get some exercise and natural inspiration hiking the General Grant tree and another Sequoia forest trail.  Without any change in the wonder of these magnificent trees, we wandered enjoying the birds and their song, the spring colors and wildflowers and the sun shining through the massive height of the trees.  With what we knew would be our final goodbye, we then parted ways for truly different paths. 

On the road again and headed for Yosemite tomorrow, I know for sure we made the right choice in coming around the Sierras to the parks and I can’t wait to see what else is in store.  Can it really keep getting better?!

In the Valley of Death

The rain in Vegas dropped the temp from 102 to 58 degrees overnight and we’re thinking it’s the perfect day to head to Death Valley where temps can exceed 134 degrees on a summer day.  It was a beautiful cool ride into the desert from the heat and bustle of Vegas.  A surprise call from Joe (my fatherly friend from Oak Flats) was a particular treat.

We entered the park before noon and found our way to the first overlook of the valley.  The panorama is again mystifying with rock that contrasts in shape and color – swirling golds, green, pink like a pastel neapolitan ice cream in all directions. 

We enjoyed the spectacular weather on a 3 plus mile hike from Zabriskie Point through the “badlands” of Death Valley.  Wandering through lunar-like washed out canyons paths, we worked up an appetite and headed back to the RV for lunch.  In the parking lot we ran into Jack who we shared beer with at Petrified Forest and met his wife Marcia.  Small world, this life on the move.  Offering another cerveza at days end, we headed on to find a campsite for the night.

Can you find the Sea Level sign?

With our site secured, we took advantage of the 77 degree high and went out to explore the valley for which the park is named.  At 3.4 million acres, Death Valley park and the valley itself is HUGE.  Wandering out onto the salt flats (with a cold beer in our pack – provisions!), we turned around and looked up to see the SEA LEVEL sign posted high up in the surrounding mountains.  At 282 feet below sea level, it boasts the lowest elevation on our continent!  When we were a good mile out, we did a little Holy City Brewing photo shoot and subsequent refreshment break.  (grin)

I have to be careful not to bore all you readers with our day to day details but each day is so full, it’s just hard to leave anything out!  That night we connected with Jack and Marcia and a beer turned into apps into dinner under the stars.  We parted ways with a plan for an early morning hike before the temps began to rise again to a promised 95.

The hike was a great time!  We did a combo of 3 different trails from canyon to bouldering to washout.  With great vistas, challenging climbs and fun pauses, the 3 hours passed quickly.  Along the way we made numerous stops to explore the crazy colors in the rock – a white patch of what behaved like chalk, beautiful lime green that lost its color upon closer appraisal, pastel pink that washed out when not in its place among the other rock.  We found a natural “amphitheater” and had a little talent show with tongue twisters, impersonations and joke telling.  All in all, an invigorating hike.

The hot afternoon was spent in the shade.  Odd housekeeping needs, the visitor center stop with the park movie, a stop at the park post office where Marcia did some geocaching.  And the night brought a cool breeze and another wonderful meal and a rousing game of cards.

Having moved beyond acquaintances to friends yet again, the next morning meant goodbyes and hopes for a connection in the years to come.  Rob filled the water tank, dumped the “other” tanks and got the windshield ready for the next onslaught of bugs and we’re back on the road. 

What Happens in Vegas...

With friends from Charleston recently moved to the area, Vegas was a must do on our itinerary.  The beer we had hoped to intercept as well as the much needed parts for the RV were also due to arrive here (even though NEITHER DID!).  So we battled our way through the Vegas chaos finding the laundromat, the Trader Joes, gas at Costco and supplies at dreaded WalMart and finally squeezed through the strip to find the parking lot behind the Paris Las Vegas casino which was notorious for allowing RV’s to spend the night there.

We knew Vegas was going to be an experience but when this colorful couple bounced out of their RV to play “camp hosts” to us, directly us into a parking spot across from theirs when we couldn’t identify one on our own, we knew we were in for quite a ride!  Bryant (Spry Bry, actually) and Sammy (Samanfah) were a delightfully friendly 20 something couple and were happy to accept a beer and make merry.  Bry, we quickly learned as he filmed the beer, our RV, Rob and anything he could focus on with his beautiful camera, is a film maker from Vancouver, BC.   Sammy, in her pastel hair extensions and glittery unicorn attire, is a costume designer from London who loves “color and sparkle”.

We had arranged to meet John, Kathleen (new friends from last night) and their friend John for a wander through the strip that eve and they showed up just minutes later as I was desperately trying to put the coach back in order.  We shared appetizers, beer and lively conversation.  Bry pulled out his mixer and played some tunes and we had an instant parking lot party!  As the evening wore on, we moved with our local guides to the strip to see the volcano act at the Tropicana, the fountains at the Bellagio, the gondoliers at the Venetian and the flowers at the Wynn.  John #1 &2 and Kathleen eventually headed home and we wandered back to our “spot in the lot” for a less than peaceful nor dark night!  (shocking how much light and sound can amplify after you’ve become used to quiet and dark!)

Waking at barely the crack of a 5am sweltering dawn, we decided fixing the A/C was priority #1.  After a much-needed wander to coffee, we found a wonderful garage, Masters Automotive, who got us right in and did a professional and reasonably priced job on our movable home.  THANKS, guys!  

The next order was to relocate to someplace a bit less chaotic for our 2^nd Vegas night, that being Red Rocks Canyon on the far west side of town near our Charleston friends, Amy and Erik.

Although I am a city girl at heart, Charleston has a just a touch less energy than Vegas!  It was nice to settle into our site in the midst of another striking view.  

Amy and Erik soon arrived and we enjoyed a glass of wine and some apps enjoying the late afternoon breeze and light.  Next on the agenda was visiting their new home construction site and finding a place to enjoy dinner together.  It’s always fun to see a home going up and even more exciting to see how happy our friends were in their new locale.  We celebrated Cinco de Mayo at a local Mexican restaurant and, being Erik was driving, had “a few” margaritas!

After a much better night’s sleep than the night before, we woke to pack up yet again and meet Amy for a ride through Red Rocks Canyon and a hike to some petroglyphs and up Ice Box Canyon.  I have grown to appreciate the amazingly diverse flora of the desert and we spotted a lot of color amidst the rock and sand.  The contrast of cacti and wildflowers is especially striking.  Saying goodbye to Amy, we grabbed a quick lunch in the RV and did another couple mile hike around the visitor center before heading back into Vegas for a BBQ at John and Kathleen’s.

As we pulled out of the parking lot, we were chased down (literally) by several trail runners and race staff that were set up for an event (5k, 10k and ½ marathon) that morning.  BEER?  BEER!  PLEASE STOP!  And, of course we did!  The Holy City Brewing story certainly is a draw for magnetic people!  We had fun with the crazy Triple Dare trail running owner and cohorts, trading beer for shoulder massages and vitamin water! 

We ended our Las Vegas adventure with the BBQ.  John and Kathleen welcomed us warmly  When Bry and Sam showed up we decided we all needed to see exactly what these kids were up to and put on Bry’s movie “Taking my Parent to Burning Man”.  So, I’m just saying…this is a delightful and impressive film and if you’re in the mood for a fun docu-adventure, you MUST view it! (available on Netflix!!)  What a great night we had!  Fun people, great food and new friends. 

As the unexpected rain falls on the RV roof, I write in our Walmart parking lot home for the night.  Sad to have old and new friends in the rearview mirror but knowing the miles ahead will bring many more.

No Disappointments Here!

In the Grand Canyon we were thinking we had seen the best of the best, then we move on to Bryce that was wonderfully other-worldly and great fun.  The next stop just a hundred miles away was Zion National Park.  We had to backtrack to get there so the scenery was a repeat most of the way but then we turned the corner toward Zion on Highway 9 and the scenery that gives Zion its name opened before us.

With huge sandstone cliffs of every color, a mountain engraved with a natural checkerboard, the vegetation growing ever more diverse…each element added to the magic.  I keep telling myself I’ll stop taking pictures from the coach, that they just can’t give the real impression, but it’s impossible to pass through such amazing country and not feel you HAVE to capture it somehow.  Along the 20 mile stretch we had mountain goats stop traffic, we passed through a mile long tunnel that was blasted through the mountain in 1929 and we stopped to view and had another Holy City beer encounter!

 Zion is the oldest and busiest of the National Parks.  We came well before the official season began but the double long shuttle buses were already full.  I can’t even begin to imagine how busy this will be in a couple of months.  Having dropped over 4000ft in elevation from Bryce, the weather was a much appreciated sunny and warm and we found a campsite (a story in itself!), filled our water tanks, got settled and headed out to explore.

There are nine stops on the shuttle system in Bryce and we headed for the furthest out and hopped our way back.  There is some form of hike ranging from easy to “challenging” at just about every stop.  We took three of them throughout the afternoon.  One was a meander along the beautiful Virgin River that cut Zion Canyon.  The “Narrows”, a famous skinny canyon hiking experience, was closed due to high water risks but the hike was just what we needed.

Then we moved on to the next stop and to take the short half mile hike up to beautiful hanging gardens.  Zion is still a desert but it has more water than the Grand Canyon or Bryce and the flora is captivating.  With delicate mountain columbine growing next to a hearty cactus, the contrast is strikingly beautiful.  In the hanging gardens, moss and fern grow as water trickles down the mountain from above giving the feel of a tropical forest.

You'll have to search this one for the climbers -
and this was with full magnification!

Here is also where we followed the upturned gaze of a crowd of tourists to find mountain climbers 2/3 of the way up a shockingly vertical cliff.  Being barely a pin dot on the mountainside from our viewpoint, when put in the camera viewfinder at its most extended setting and then blown up further upon viewing, you could just barely make out their shapes – this was a HUGE cliff, y’all!  This managed to hold ours and everyone else’s attention for a good bit before we could peel ourselves away.

Our final hike was another couple miles up to the Emerald Pools.  A bit more challenging than the previous two, this wound its way up a side canyon to another water meets rock sanctuary.  Crazy tree frogs created a chorus that echoed through the hills as water found its way down and around cliff faces for another magical moment. 

The evening was spent enjoying cheese, crackers and beer in the blissful warmth of the setting sun with the towering cliffs all around.  The stars came out to dazzle and the campground offered a peaceful moonlit stroll.

Without a campsite for the following night, we moved to the parking lot to take advantage of seeing the last few sights of Zion before moving on.  We biked the riverside path to the visitor center and watched the always informative video, took another short hike and had lunch in the RV before getting back on the road toward Las Vegas.

We had heard on several occasions not to miss Valley of Fire State Park on the way so we set our compass there.  Just 30 miles from Vegas, it seemed a good place to stop before the neon lights and energy of the big city.  With the temps climbing into the 90s and not a cloud in the sky, we find ourselves back in the desert climes. 

Valley of Fire isn’t visible upon approach and the area which is just west of Lake Mead and the Hoover Dam area was unimpressive until you actually arrive.  Piles of bright red sandstone seem to have been dropped like sand castles in the middle of the desert.  With miles and miles of them in the contrastingly different surrounding landscape, the area truly is a surprise.

Our campsite neighbors, John and Kathleen, were relaxing in the afternoon heat when we arrived and inquired about – what else – BEER!  We hit it off immediately and didn’t think twice about avoiding a hike in the blazing temps to instead make new friends over a beverage.  One beer led to several with these craft beer lovers and we wiled the hours in good conversation and an eventual campfire feast of bacon and eggs under the moonlight.

This morning, when retrieving our chairs at John and Kathleen's, they invited us for a drive to the more unusual areas of the park and we were treated to more spectacular nature.  This area looks like some giant made a giant sand castle with sands of different colors.  Layers of mountain in white, yellow, green, red and purple - what a treat!  Thanks John and Kathleen!  On our journey measured in friends, they have added great measure!

We're back on the road with Las Vegas in our sights.  Who knows what stories are yet to come?

Another World

Our time at the Grand Canyon had to end at some point.  I can’t believe we were able to spend an entire week there – no matter the circumstances!  Rob’s health had improved markedly since our arrival and we had experienced all the areas that were accessible to us and it was time to move on.

Our first stop was Desert View and the Watchtower at park’s exit.  With a final exceptional view of the canyon’s expanse, it was a perfect ending. We were able to share some brews with our neighbors in the parking lot there who enjoy Holy City Brewery each year during their visit to Charleston!

The plan was to move in baby steps to test how driving would affect Rob but Lake Powell didn’t entice us and things were going well and we made our way to Bryce Canyon without incident.  Surprisingly, we easily found a campsite in the park.  We wasted no time getting settled and headed out to see the Bryce Amphitheater, the reason for the park’s existence.

WOW!  From the grassy, forested hills of the park’s roads and campgrounds, a simple path to the rim trail and … the world opens up before you!  With geologic shapes and expansive views, the area is stunning.  We wandered from viewpoint to viewpoint enjoying talking to people along the way. 

An interesting finding on this adventure, Rob and I guess that well over half of the visitors in the parks are from other countries.  There is very little English heard as you walk, ride the shuttles or enjoy the views.  We hear LOTS of German, Asian and French but the variety is endless.  I would love to know exactly what the statistics are for this.  I know the Grand Canyon has expectations to exceed their usual attendance by over 20% this year – is it international travelers?

So, back to Bryce…we had a fun evening with 3 groups we met within our first hours here.  Canadians, Gary and Susan (who we met at the ever-popular waste dump station) stopped by for a beer.  Before they headed out, Lauren and Sean (whose picture we took for them on the rim earlier) came by as well.  They had been on a 4 day backpacking trip and were anxious for a great beer.  No problem there! 

Sean, ironically, grew up in Charleston.  He graduated from College of Charleston, worked at Roper Hospital for a while and played for our wonderful soccer team the Charleston Battery!  Our paths had crossed unnoticed several times over the years through our business and our connection with Dragon Boat Charleston.  SMALL WORLD!!!

By then it was dark and getting cold fast so we headed inside when a knock on the door brought the campsite hosts in to join us!  We all got along famously.  It’s funny how such diverse folks can so easily find common ground.  I ended up making a casserole and we spent the night sharing beer and stories.  By the end of the night, we parted not just acquaintances but friends - just exactly what we needed to get us back on track!

Today we set out to hike the “hoodoos” of Bryce Canyon.  We descended from Sunrise point into the magical world of what makes Bryce so unique.  Each twist and turn brought breathtaking views and we wandered around three different trails until we were both spent.  We hadn’t expected the trails to have so much elevation change but once we were out there, there wasn’t any going back so we conquered!

Back to clean up from the dust and sweat, the plan for the rest of the day is the Visitor Center and park video along with the shuttle through the other viewpoints in the Canyon park.  The sun is shining and the weather is warmer than we’ve had in a good 10 days.  The scenery is gorgeous, we’re making friends and all in all, it looks like things are definitely going our way!