Familiar Faces in Faraway Places

Lowcountry Voices.  One of those things in my life I wouldn’t sacrifice for anything.  A dynamic, talented Gospel Choir of near 100 voices, I feel completely honored to be a part.  Always loving to sing, I never thought I would qualify but found an accepting, encouraging home in this group.  Having been a part of this group and its predecessor since 2007, connecting with them in Toronto was a special treat.

The feeling of our journey coming to an end left my mind completely when we drove into Toronto and were greeted by familiar faces.   The RV was a hit and, within hours, we loaded up a crowd of 15 to take our illustrious director to the mall to acquire forgotten tennis shoes –  a fun and funny adventure after thousands of miles traveling solo. 

The group was in Toronto on tour to sing at the St. Michael’s Basilica and at historic Casa Loma along with other chance opportunities.  Traveling on their chartered bus, our first concert was St. Michael’s Cathedral/Basilica in Old Town.  Surprising and sadly enough, no one had done any marketing of our performance and we sang a private concert for our traveling companions with the magnificent sound filling the cathedral. 

The day continued with enjoying the St. Lawrence market, a wander through the financial district and finishing in the Distillery District where our impromptu “flash mob” drew a REAL audience!  We enjoyed the cooler temps and the new surroundings, had a beer with our Charleston neighbor Bobbie who also sings in the choir and were back to the hotel in time to catch happy hour and have a casual evening.

With rain showers in the morning and Rob and I used to more adventurous wandering, we didn’t go with the group the following day.  Staying in the RV on the street in front of the hotel located near the airport and a good distance from downtown, we took the hotel shuttle to the airport, the train to the city outskirts and the subway to the city center. 

We wandered the university and parliament areas, China Town and connected with the choir at Eaton Center, City Hall and the Music Gardens.  We happened to be passing the Toronto Blue Jays arena just as the game was ending.  In the bottom of the 10^th, the Blue Jays were at bat with bases loaded and a 1 and 3 count.  Progressing to a full count as we continued past, the final pitch brought a grand slam just as we peaked through the doors!   Such fun!  We beat the sea of fans to a great pub, The Elephant and Castle, where Bobbie joined us and we had a few beers and some great people watching. 

Our final day with the choir took us to Casa Loma, Toronto’s version of the Biltmore Estate.  Built by an electric power tycoon before the utility became public, it is another tribute to wealth and excess.  Of course, that includes spectacular grounds and beautiful meandering as well as a very special venue for us to sing.  Singing in the garden with visitors watching from the building’s balconies was a special treat.

With some of the crowd returning to the hotel and others still feeling adventurous, the bus dropped a group of us at the Kensington Market where we could while away our Friday evening.  A bohemian area with a multi-ethnic population, it was just what we were looking for.

The server at the rolled ice cream shop made quite an impression as he demonstrated the unique confection despite our not being quite ready to consume.  Instead, we chose an offbeat bar for a mojito, a specialty burger place (make mine a veggie!) and ended at Pie in the Sky, a fitting finale.  Rob had his favorite strawberry rhubarb while I had a delicious peach raspberry before we all ordered an UBER and returned to the hotel.

With the group headed to Niagara Falls and us needing to return to Buffalo and Rob’s recovering mother, we said our goodbyes the next morning and were back on the road.  The next two weeks bring family time in Buffalo before our journey’s final chapter to home.  Who knows what adventures we’ll cook up along the way?

Beginning the Final Stretches

When I realized that my phone didn’t match the wall or radio time I was perplexed.  Now, that’s odd, I thought.  Not for long, of course, but it just didn’t register at first.  For closing in on four months now, my reality has had me hours behind the time “at home”.  Crossing back into EST was an actual shocking reality for me.

We’re on our way home.  Not without a lot of fun along the way but nonetheless the adventure is winding down.

My parents honeymooned in Mackanac Island.  The only childhood family trip we attempted to the Michigan Upper Peninsula turned into a family disaster – one that we all still laugh about when we’re together.  After all these years, we worked our way through northern Wisconsin and into the “U.P.”

Being in such close quarters for these months we had found a way to make it work.  Being with family for a week got us out of our “element” and the first day neither of us recovered very quickly.  The campsite for the night was JW Wells State Park – after a bit of confusion and then some good ole’ robust arguing!  Like I said, we were adjusting…

And that was how we entered our home time zone.  Since then the feeling of finality has grown as we move on.  We’ve made it up and around the Michigan Upper Peninsula.  The first day we drove a good distance again before reaching the Painted Rocks National Lakefront.  Not able to navigate the gravel roads in the park, we headed for the site the RV could maneuver and attempted a long hike. 

With recent rainfall, the parks were wet and buggy.  The trail led through everything from a rich forest with a path blanketed in pine straw, to old hardwoods with winding roots challenging every step to deep sand and an honest to goodness beach.  We marveled at the colorful rock faces, the crystal water and the serenade of countless birds.

The big find, though, was a waterfall hidden behind a rock cropping that cascaded over the rocks above for a true “paradise” moment!  Apparently chasing waterfalls is a “thing” up here and the whole area is teaming with families doing exactly that.  The next day, we planned to hike some of the favorites ourselves and headed down the road to find our spot for the night. 

Not having reservations proved to be a problem.  Realizing all those waterfalling families planned ahead better than we and after striking out on our 3 intended options, we drove to the Lake Superior-front town Grand Marais to regroup. 

The Lake Superior Brewing Company seemed the logical place to get all the “skinny” on where we needed to try next so in we went.  Olivia, the bartender, was a hoot and kept us entertained.  (and she was THRILLED to have some Holy City beers to try!)

By local suggestion, we ended up in the lighthouse parking lot at the tip of the town with a full-on view of the Lake Superior shoreline.  We shared some beers with a fisherman or two and took a walk down the beach collecting wonderfully tumbled “worry” stones.   With a beautiful sunset and an equally entrancing sunrise the next morning, we claimed the sight as one of our top stokes of luck!

We did hike the favored Tehquamenon waterfall the next day hiking down and around the different viewing points of the Upper Falls.  Attempting a nature path there, we encountered wet hiking of a whole new caliber and both ended up slogging our way back with mud to our knees. 

Having been to Yosemite, Zion and Yellowstone with their spectacular collections of waterfalls, I guess we were harder to please than the crowds around us so when we drove to the Lower Falls and saw a long line to park, we moved on down the road without thinking too much about it. 

Having no idea again where we’d camp, we started our search earlier and drove the scenic path along the Lake Superior shoreline where a couple campgrounds had potential.  Pulling into the first one which wasn’t my optimal choice, we miraculously found a site reserved for the next night but overlooked as available to that point and we wasted no time registering and settling in.

Happy just to have a site, we had no idea what the campground offered . . . like the private beach?!  With a path from our sight straight to the beach, we spent the rest of the afternoon basking in the sun and collecting sea glass.  The evening was more of the same with another walk at sunset and some star gazing when the sky was blissfully dark under a new moon.

Having decided to head stateside to Buffalo before Canada to unload the last of the beer and alcohol onboard and avoid heavy duty tax, the last few days have taken us from beach magic to…well, Ohio!  We drove out of the Upper Peninsula with Lakes Huron and Michigan on either side and wound our way around the scenic Lake Michigan shoreline replete with a wonderful bike path that provided a much-needed afternoon break. 

Finding a “functional” campsite, the evening was less than eventful and we were back on  the road without hesitation before driving the balance of Michigan and near halfway across Ohio the next day.  With nary a county, state or national park in site, we grabbed another commercial campsite where we found another 20 mile bike path to wash the long miles of the day away. 

Today we finish the drive to Buffalo and Rob’s mom and family where the bulk of our final month will be spent.  As our years advance, so do those of our mothers and these encounters become that much more meaningful.  So onward we go into more familiar territory…on the road toward home.

A Place Called Home

We arrived in Hartford, WI in the early evening where my mom awaited our arrival at my Aunt Helen and Uncle Karl’s home.   The aroma of a home cooked dinner filled the house and stepping in the door we were instantly “home”.    

My mom is the 3^rd of 4 girls in the Keys family.  Raised on a farm in Fond du Lac, WI, they grew up with a mother who grew flowers in not only beds but in fields.  I remember going to Grandma’s house to find her nearly hidden in the gladiolas.  Helen picked up that talent and has beautiful gardens surrounding the house while birdfeeders attract all sorts of wonderful visitors. 

Most of the next six nights we camped in the driveway just outside the garage where their motor home resides just steps away from continual special treats from fresh baked muffins in the morning to family favorite apple raspberry pie. Friday night meant fish fry (it’s WISCONSIN, right?!) and we did it right ordering all you can eat including fish, fries, potato pancakes, german potato salad and cole slaw.  Add that to a wonderfully made old fashioned or two and you know you’re in Wisconsin for sure!

Having spent the previous 3 ½ months with near daily mountain hikes, Rob and I managed to a “balance the scales” (so to speak) with hiking on the nearby Ice Age Trail that offered some gastric as well as energy relief.  We did different sections each day to get our hiking “fix” with the Erratic Glacial Trail being a particular favorite even offering some aerobic challenge.

Saturday we headed with mom in the RV up to Fond du Lac to connect with the rest of the family.  All came out for a fantastic family barbeque with another Wisconsin standard, brats, and all the fixin’s (we needed more food, right?!)  We arrived early and cousin Midge and I got to cooking up a feast as the family members arrived.  By night’s end, we were 20 strong in number and finished the evening watching a classic storm come in and put us to bed.

It was fun having Mom spend the night with us even if it was in a parking lot on Main St!  After a noisy Saturday night on the main drag, we spent the next day helping Midge around the house and in her garden before we walked up the street to Gilles’ Custard – an absolute MUST for any visit to Fond du Lac!  My mom and dad met at Gilles’ where Mom was a car hop and my history was made!

Needing to get back to Hartford for work on the RV in the morning, we were back on the road.  We stopped to see Aunt Laurette on the way.  Her son Greg bought their family home where I remember picking raspberries and riding horses as a child.  Laurette gave me a good ride on the tree swing while Greg showed Rob their bee hives and sent us home with a quart of bee gold!  Greg’s wife, Debby shared her special talent on the harp and we left feeling richer in every way.

Back in Hartford with appointments for repair each day, just being together was the order of business.   We shopped, we talked, we cooked, we ate.  With our previous days’ bee encounter, we thought it might be fun to visit the nearby Honey Museum.  I love happening on unexpected surprises!  A quaint but determined enterprise in the middle of nowhere, this little gem had fun, informative and entertaining displays.  Without going into a full-on lesson in bees and honey, we came out not only more knowledgeable but even inspired by these amazing creatures. 

After six days, it’s time for us all to get back to our own business.  Helen and Karl are off in their camper headed for a big family wedding in Iowa, Mom is on to a special trip to Germany with my sister and I have a date to sing with my gospel choir Lowcountry Voices as they tour Toronto…and we’re on the road again!

Headed Toward Home

The Badlands were a short drive away from Bear Butte.  We stopped for our obligatory grocery and fuel supplies before taking the scenic route into the park and arrived in the hot hot heat of the day.  With the mountains out of sight and the Black Hills barely visible, the Badlands provide a “last hurrah” of western splendor. 

We luckily scored the last available campsite and got settled.  The sun was brutally hot and we headed to the visitor center to plan our time in the Badlands as well as have a respite from the heat.  

Having the great hike up Bear Butte earlier in the day we didn’t feel the compulsion to expend ourselves too fully and after watching the movie and getting our maps, we wiled the balance of the daylight hours sharing beers with our campsite neighbors. 

The Badlands are famed for their evening night sky program that is subsidized by local universities including a decent telescope.   Not having experienced much of this in my lifetime, I was excited to peer into the telescope to see Jupiter with its bands and moons before the full moon rose and clouds obscured the view.

We rose early the next morning to hit the trails and see the park.   Beating the heat at 6am, we loaded our bikes on our neighbors’ car and were graciously driven up the hill where we could navigate the park highlights with better ease.  Before midday, we hiked 5 different trails logging in over 8 miles and seeing what the park had to offer.  

The sun climbed high and hot and we returned to our campsite racing our bikes the steep downhill run back down the hills where we spent the balance of the afternoon avoiding the heat and getting some well-deserved rest.  John and Diane, our gracious ride-giving neighbors, joined us for happy hour and we shared a grill as we prepared our respective dinners and we got ready for the next day’s departure for the long stretch of flatlands to come.

After the best night’s sleep we’d had in a week – right through a major midnight storm! – we hit the road with no particular destination in mind other than east.  Feeling sad to leave the west behind, a visit with family from my hometown Wisconsin was next on the agenda which eased the melancholy.  The South Dakota summer heat again blazed down as we marched across the state.

Covering more ground than expected we made it to Sioux Falls by late afternoon.  Planning on stocking up there at Costco, we stopped for gas to find that not only had our refrigerator had stopped working but we had beer not taking the heat very well either.  Finding the reason for an odd noise we had heard, I had to clean up from the two cans that had exploded!  How is it that for a fine how-do-you-do on a scorching hot day?!  Instead of groceries, we loaded ice and the frig contents into the cooler, tried to get beer out of the carpet on off the ceiling and set to making do until parts could be ordered and retrieved in Wisconsin.

We camped at a State Park campground on the SD/MN border with the unusual and helpful benefit of a power hook up that we took full advantage of running our A/C for the first time on the trip.  We cleaned up and organized our frig and its contents and waited for the sun to head for the horizon before setting out to enjoy a magical firefly-lit sunset hike through the park.

The next day we continued our shot straight east through Minnesota under cloudy skies and slightly cooler temps.  We stopped for lunch at a rest stop midday with shaded picnic tables and a nearby bike path leading into a dense, rich forest where the road noise disappeared and the songs of birds filled the air, an unexpected delight along our way.

We reached the MN/WI border by mid-afternoon and chose the Great Bluff State Park for the night’s rest.  The campground was tucked into the lush green surroundings and we wasted no time seeking out the path to the nearest overlook.  Although growing up in Wisconsin, I had never spent much time along the Mississippi and it was breathtaking standing on the high bluffs over the strong, purposeful river.

Along the hike, we met up with two young local hikers who joined us at the campsite for a beer.  Today’s new friends were Kevin, a local teacher and band director at a 5^th- 12^th grade nearby school, and his friend Heidi who works for an organic orchard and farm just miles down the road.  Treated to some just-picked fruit from the farm (plums and apricots!), we each shared our stories as we huddled inside as a surprise storm passed through.  

I managed to sneak in yet another hike the following morning before we were back on the road and headed into Wisconsin meandering  along with the Mississippi before we took the final turn east toward Madison along the Wisconsin River.   Traveling scenic routes the whole way, we took our time being hours ahead of schedule for our arrival later in the day.  

We had great fun in Madison stopping at Trader Joes (Rob performed a brilliant temporary fix to the frig!) where the staff got quite a kick out of our Holy City transport and enthusiastically posed for some shots in trade for beer!  Seriously – how lucky can we be to be having such fun?! 

Stocked up and back on schedule, we set the gps for the final mid-state family rendezvous, our first home-like stop on our way toward home.

Monumental Reunion

After several weeks of family and friends, we headed to Scotts Bluff, NE for yet another reunion. If you’ve been following our journey, you may remember Jack who we met very early in our journey at Petrified Forest and then again in a Death Valley parking lot where we met his wife Marcia.  We hit it off and spent several chunks of time together finally parting ways at Kings Canyon park in California.

After a long drive with the mountains fading from view crossing the stark farmland of Nebraska with the wind wailing across the plains, we arrived at our rendezvous.  Jack and Marcia had a campsite waiting as well as a warm welcome and appetizers and we had no trouble settling in despite the blazing heat of the setting summer sun.

We planned an early rise to beat the heat and headed to Scotts Bluff National Monument.  A passage on the Oregon Trail, the park had amazing volunteer docents who imparted well researched and presented knowledge on the area and era.  We were disappointed that the trail up the bluff was closed for maintenance but enjoyed wandering where we could, viewing the museum, parts of the trail and around the grounds.

Being the 4^th of July, Marcia had a full BBQ planned for the evening.  We burned a few calories on an afternoon bike ride before falling into full holiday mode.  Feet up and drink in all hands, a neighbor, Mike, inquired about the Brew Tour and the next few hours we were entertained trading tastes of beer for tasted of his home brewed spirits. 

From plain vodka to salted caramel cream to apple pie moonshine, the samples kept coming!  Suffering from PTSD, Mike was an interesting character with lots of talent and lots of stories.  Leaving to retrieve his traveling nurse wife from her job, we dove into Marcia’s BBQ feast before climbing onto the RV roof to see the local fireworks.

We woke for an early morning departure with plans of securing campsites at the first come first served campground at Wind Cave National Park.  On the way, we detoured to check out Agate Fossil Beds National Monument.  Completely surprised with the quality of this remote monument, we enjoyed the displays highlighting a riverbed site where thousands of dinosaurs perished 20 million years ago and then we hiked out to the dig site in the searing heat.  The park also had a unique and impressive display of Indian relics gifted to a local rancher that did a great job depicting native American life.

Having spent more time than anticipated at Agate, we drove the final stretch to Wind Cave still in time to score two neighboring campsites.  We familiarized ourselves with the campground and area, had a picnic of leftovers and went to bed early thankful to be in a cool, quiet and fresh campground after the intensity of industrial Scottsbluff.

The next two days we essentially frolicked with our friends.  Wind Cave is an underutilized National Park although the cave tours still filled each day with visitors passing through.  We rose early to reserve our cave tour and get in a hike before the sun had its way with the daily temp.  The hike was eventful with Bison and prairie dogs and a full cover of poison ivy hugging the trailside to keep us alert and our steps intentional! 

We took the “strenuous” version of the cave tour in the early afternoon.  The tour was 2/3 mile with 450 steps (mostly down), which was anything but a strain for us daily hikers.  There was a lot of walking without a lot of ooh or aah moments but the boxwork feature found only in this area was interesting to see.

Having viewed the park’s main attraction, Jack invited us for dinner out in Hot Springs which we had passed through on our way to the park.  We wandered the antique shops looking for eye cups to add to Marcia’s collection but struck out.  Unfortunately, we didn’t find much else in the town to get excited about!   No worries when in the company of friends…we had a beer and food at the local bar and called it an adventure!

The next day, we headed for yet another great monument, Mount Rushmore.  Taking the wildlife loop through Custer State Park, we were stopped for a ½ hour by the bison herd.  Not only crossing but crowding the road, the rutting season appeared to have just begun with a lot of frisky bulls butting heads in the literal sense!  Further on we spotted pronghorn, wild burros, prairie dogs and a coyote; I’d say a good variety for our effort.

Taking the back road toward Rushmore, we passed through a series of tight tunnels bored through the mountains and had great fun stopping to get crazy shots of the famous site through the tunnel views.  Confirming our decision not to visit the monument officially was the long line trying to even get to the access road for the parking lot and we continued on to check out the Needles Highway.

A strikingly beautiful winding road, we were captivated by the ever-changing vistas before stopping at yet another, Sylvan Lake, where we had planned for a good 6.5 mile hike up Harney Peak.  The weather was a gorgeous 76 degrees as we headed up the trail.  The Black Hills is such a picturesque area and the trail was a pleasure to hike and we happily made our way up just as the clouds started rolling in.  Making it just over 2 of the 3ish miles up the trail, the rain began. 

Within minutes the temp started dropping as did the HAIL!  Without any extra clothes or gear we found ourselves at the mercy of the elements and realized we best turn tail and get headed down.  Getting soaked and progressively colder, we kept the attitude light with some good laughs about our situation.  We found out how lucky we had been as we drove back to our campsite along roads with 4+ inches of hail alongside!  Arriving back to our campsite where the sun was shining and the temp was 86, we marveled at the 30 degree change in temp we had seen in just a few hours. 

Ending the day comparing notes on each of our plans, we once again decided to continue in the same direction and set our alarms for yet ANOTHER early departure.  Taking the scenic highway through the Black Hills National Forest, we stopped in Custer City for “buffalo of a different color” and a surprisingly good cup of coffee.  Continuing on through quaint Hill City, commercial casino-laden Deadwood and finally to the party city of Sturgis, we arrived at Bear Butte State  Park and our destination for the night.

Jack suggested we take a ride back to Deadwood for some sightseeing and we were off again!  Just 30 miles back into the hills, we fought our way into a parking spot and wandered the main drag.  Pretty much a site for drinking and gambling, we were disappointed with the town and its offerings.  We took a few minutes to cool off in a bank-turned-bar and created our own entertainment. 

Returning to camp, we ate dinner as the sun set and the full moon rose with a hike planned to the top of Bear Butte in the morning.  Through the night, the full moon ushered in what we guessed were 50 mph winds and little sleep!  Being this far north, the full moon didn’t take long to turn to a 4am rising sun and the day began earlier than expected.

The hike up Bear Butte was a highlight. Being a spiritual site for the Lakota and other area Indian tribes, the trail was laden with prayer flags on every tree.  I couldn’t help but fall into a spiritual journey of my own as the path climbed the 1100ft elevation gain.  Summiting just after 9am, the sun was already searing but the heavy breeze kept things cool as we appreciated the views in all directions as we recapped the eventful time we had had together. 

Returning to our campsites, we shared dreams of what crazy adventures we might reunite for in the year(s) ahead and then got packed up and on the road headed in opposite directions…for now!  And Rob and I are back on our path again.  Headed for supplies and our final National Park for a while, we know we’re at a turning point in our journey.  With the mountains gone, the Black Hills fading and barely some bumps in the landscape ahead, the road ahead is a whole new chapter.