FunDay at Fundy Sept 4-5

We woke up in Truro ready to get on the road.  We had some driving ahead to get to Fundy National Park where we hoped to catch the low tide and walk on the ocean floor.   Even with spotty internet almost the entire drive was spent fielding texts and emails corresponding with family, friends and neighbors about the storm.

Today was the day.  Hurricane Dorian left the Bahamas after more than 24 hours battering the islands mercilessly and started its march toward the states.  The forecasters still couldn’t put a box around what to expect and we were still battling with internet signals.  I was in a funk.  We were so far from home, we were counting on far too many people to take care of business at our Charleston house and I was overwhelmed with the whole thing.  It was one of those days that didn’t go that smoothly in our little remote world.  Just sayin’. 

Maintaining enough signal for basic communication, we got to Fundy and found a   We wasted no time and headed for the waterfront.  We tried several ways to get down to the mud flats of the low tide to no avail and finally just walked the main road down. 
campsite.

The experience is somewhat surreal.  I didn’t really understand the whole concept until 3 hours later when the tide had come up but we took a good while to walk all the way out to where the water had already begun its march back to the shore. 

I had expected to find a lot of life or indications   Surprisingly, it was pretty bare.  Some rock born seaweed I later learned was dulce and a lot of rocks were about the only finds.  We were told we had until 3 hours after low to wander and we were getting close.  All the way out at the water’s edge, it was shocking to see the speed it was progressing.
of it out there.

We abandoned the experience and headed back to the site.  Rob had had enough hiking!  With sore feet and a list of projects he was happy to work on, I went out for a solo hike on the Upper Salmon River.  Enjoying the solitude and rich vegetation, I made it all the way to a needed forge across the river – complete with guide line to grab if you “go under”.  Needless to say, good spot to turn around!

Finding myself back near the waterfront, I stood in wonder looking out over a solid mass of water (later learning there was 39’ of it!) over where we had just recently trod!  There were clouds forming over the water and a swift wind carrying the mist to a nearby mountain and creating a thick mound of fluffy cloud mass looking like whipped cream painted on the landscape.  Such a magical world.

We had a night of yet more hurricane correspondence over a fire and a sky threatening a storm.  The news coming from our storm at home had us looking much better than expected on the front side.  With that encouraging word, we pondered the power of this amazing world around us and called it a day.

Kejimkujic National Park Sept 2 – 3

News from home has Hurricane Dorian with sights set on Charleston.   Never good news for us folks with a house that floods.  In our flooding history in our home, the big problem doesn’t start until October and we had hoped we’d be having a lighter year this year.  Apparently we were going to be wrong on both counts.  Anyway, we were nervous about heading to far afield with cell coverage being essential during this precarious time.

Figuring that the worse case scenario was that we’d get to Keji to find no coverage.  If so, we could spend at least a few hours to hike and get a feel for the area before finding our way back to service.  Thankfully, we arrived to find decent service pretty much throughout and we grabbed a campsite and settled in. 

I’m always thrilled to be back in a park.  I love putting our “rug” under the chairs outside and laying out the tablecloth with my outdoor candle.  Home in the park.  AAAHHHH.  And we didn’t waste a minute before setting out to see what made this park special.

On yet another trail we wandered.  Thinking we’d have a short jaunt around the campground and area before finding a real hike to try, we set out following the little dotted lines on the camp map.  I honestly don’t know how it happened but 2 miles went to 6 went to just under 9 (?!) before we made it back to our site – completely spent! 

The trail had wound around the entrance area where we had to stop and pay for our site and around to the different areas of the campground.  It didn’t look like much on the map and, for the FIRST time yet, was really not very exceptional!  We kept going, hoping to find the WOW moment.  

Don’t get me wrong, this is a  Planned around a very large glacial lake with interesting islands dotted throughout, it is a canoe/kayak dream.  The trails were quiet and peaceful especially with the weekend crowd gone and not yet replaced.  The landscape we saw was mostly flat and the paths were all manicured – which was part of the problem for us.  With near 9 miles of gravel paved paths, our feet took quite the beating!
nother wonderful area!

Happily back at our site, we finished the day just being there.  Relaxing in our site, barbeque dinner at a casual pace, Rob’s guitar accompaniment and a nightcap by campfire all made for the perfect recipe for a great night’s sleep.

With rain expected overnight, we had put most of our things away before we retired for the night.  Waking to find the forecast wrong, we got up to a misty morning over the lake.  We wandered down to the water to watch the gathering light and listen to the loons call, a sound I hadn’t heard since my Wisconsin childhood. 

With the storm still tracking back home and miles to knock off the map, we left the campground early.  The forecast had no rain predicted but we’ve decided that a drizzly mist here is called “cloudy” and we set out in what we would have considered a slight rain.  The day’s plan took us around the west side of the island along the coast of the Bay of Fundy.

The drive was one of the best yet with decent roads and beautiful views nearly the entire way.  With the weather staying just about the same, we stopped only to pull over at a lovely vista and enjoy our lunch.  We arrived at our destination in time to get on our bikes for the tidal bore on the Salmon River.

If you remember, we experienced a tidal bore in Moncton on our way east.  Well, we’ll be going right back through Moncton again tomorrow to make the turn around the top of the Bay of Fundy.  The Truro/Salmon River tidal bore was pretty much an exact repeat of what we saw in Moncton although this time we knew what was coming.  The biggest difference was watching the wall of water and worrying about the deluge expected back at home in the next few days!

With our 2^nd bore under our belts, we biked further into Truro to see what we could see and found a lovely park within the mostly industrial   Victoria Park was gifted to the town many years ago and has been creatively expanded over the years to be a wonderful lush retreat with a spiderweb of trails throughout.  We got off the bikes and wandered – because we could! 
town.

And the day ended getting caught up and ready for our last few days in Canada before we’re back in the USA and headed slowly back home.  We’ve officially made the turn “back” and can already feel the end being closer than the beginning.  Still hoping for good news on the hurricane front, we forge on…

A Welcome Boondock – Chapter 2 August 31 – Sept 2

Looking for WallMart alternatives, we checked the Boondockers Welcome site for possibilities in the miles ahead.  Hearing that Lunenburg was a worthwhile area to see, we found a Boondock site very nearby and applied to stay.  Headed that way from Halifax, we took a short detour and checked out Graves Island Provincial Park for a short hike on the way.

Not set up for big RVs, we had a bit of a challenge getting on the island (the one lane bridge was a clue) and getting parked, but Rob’s pretty much mastered his craft and got us in safely.   The hike wasn’t much of a hike really.  It was more of a quick path around the campground.  But hike we did, thankful for the break from the road and the breath of fresh air. 

When I found a patch of berries along the way, I grabbed a handful and munched.  And then I found more.  And more!  We finished the loop and I grabbed a container and went berry picking!  I got another couple miles added on my hike total and had over a quart of fresh picked black raspberries to show for my effort!   

Less than an hour later we were pulling into the designated spot at our next Boondocker location waved in by smiling hostess Darby.  Darby and husband Mike have their own RV in the main drive and save the 2^nd drive for folks passing through.  We said our hellos and got settled and they headed out for a party they were due at while we got on our bikes for a ride down the trail to Lunenburg to see what it was all about.

11km down the rails to trails path, we found lovely Lunenburg.  A UNESCO Heritage site, it’s a lovely working waterfront town with picturesque homes on the hillside and quaint shops in abundance.  We enjoyed our wander through town along the waterfront and up the hillside.  We found the local brewery and tried their wares (so to speak), creating a more challenging bike ride the remaining 11KM back!

It was such a treat to return to our homey campsite for the night.  We pulled out our chairs and some apps and watched the sun set over the lovely town of Mahone Bay.  The setting sun over the lovely waterfront called our names and we decided to take a stroll around town. 

We didn’t expect to be out that night but wandered by the local pub just as the music was starting.  And that settled that!  After several pints and a bartender’s choice (Sex on the Beach … really?!) cocktail later, we found our way back for a peaceful night.

We found an invite for morning muffins on our door on our return so the next morning found us knocking on our hosts’ door bright and early.  Walking in to fresh baked chocolate raspberry scones, we got to know Mike and Darby over an amazing breakfast treat!

This is what RVers brag about all the time.  This community of fellow travelers are a pretty special bunch!  Mike and Darby invited us to stay another night with an offer to show us more of the area and before we knew it, we were all piling into their car for a trip to Oak Island. 

Any of you out there know about this buried treasure media hype of a place?  Well, we hadn’t ever heard of it!  For those of you like us, this location has been being excavated since the late 1700’s with the promise of buried treasure.  You wouldn’t have believed the number of “believers” on site!  Cameras poised and stories enthusiastically told, it was clearly “the thing”!  Hey, John Wayne and FDR were both on board over time – oh my.

With that under our belt, we joined forces for lunch on the Adirondack chairs before heading out to treat our hosts to their local homemade ice cream.   YUMM!!!  It was to be a day of indulgence for sure!  Being in the business for 30 years, we know good ice cream.  This was!  Three of us had Skoreo – a blend of English toffee and Oreo ice cream while Mike had the peach and no one was disappointed.

The afternoon was spent with more graciously offered sightseeing.  We went out to small fishing villages, special geologic rock formations and exquisite waterfront views.  We stopped at a little farm market on the roadside and scored some fresh veggies.  Mike and Darby were the most gracious and accommodating tour guides!  If so much as an “ah” was heard, the car would stop with windows rolled down for picture taking.

The night ended with happy hour on the side porch with lots of RV maintenance challenges discussed and favorite destinations shared before we parted ways having an early exit planned for the morning.  Having pulled into the drive barely 24 hours earlier, we headed back to our rig at days end having new friends added to the ever-growing list.  These boondocking stays were definitely going to be a favorite go to from now on!

The Very Long Day and Beyond August 28 – 30

With the Cabot Trail behind us, the balance of Nova Scotia lay ahead.  We had no plan for conquering the rest of this big island and really didn’t even have recommendations on which way to head.  Word had it that the eastern shore was beautiful so… that was it! 

We’re traveling in a class a motorhome.  This is the bus style – with all of our belongings right here where we are.  When we’re on a bad patch of road, it sounds like someone is dumping our house in a tin can and shaking – hard!  AND WE WERE ON A BAD PATCH OF ROAD!  FOR ABOUT 3 HOURS!!!!

We didn’t even have a real destination in mind except to see the eastern shore and eventually arrive in Halifax.  The weather was cloudy and blustery but dry with rain forecast later in the day.  Our best diversion when faced with a day otherwise unplanned is a hike.   I looked for hikes along our planned route and we banged our way across the island toward the trailhead. 

The hike was following the Liscomb River and sounded good.  We arrived to find the entrance blocked by road construction and the trail was so intensely overgrown that it was really not realistic without a machete.  We found the end of the trail on the other side of the river and we gave that a try.  It ended up being a worthwhile diversion, albeit only a short area of the trail, with wild blueberries as an added bonus!

Hesitantly, we got back on the road.  From one minute to the next, the road would change from pretty darn good to disastrous!  Having no idea how this one crazy stretch of highway was managed, we soldiered on.  The area really was beautiful and almost entirely right on the waterfront.   For hours we continued with a possible destination where a series of hiking trails converged and there were indications of a town bigger than one cross street!

Arriving at said location, we looked for a place we might inconspicuously camp for the night.  We first tried the high school parking lot.  Could have worked but we were pretty obvious.  The we passed the trailhead parking lot…BINGO!  A large parking area clearly under-utilized, we pulled in and immediately knew this would be a great night!  And it was.   We had a chance to stretch our legs on a trail before the rain set in.  Our spot was blissfully dark and quiet and we settled into cozy mode with the rain as our blanket.

The next morning we were able to hit the trail that I had scoped out.  Promising a challenge with good views and diverse terrain, we were ready!  The hike was everything that was promised!  We climbed rocky slopes, through old growth forest, bouldered to lookouts, got soaked from the night’s downpour forging through the vegetation and found even more blueberries to munch along the way.  

The hike took quite a bit longer than expected and we finished feeling fully challenged for the day.  We weren’t far from the day’s stopping point and we got on the road for what, after yesterday’s marathon, was a quick jaunt to the Halifax area.  We again used our WalMart standby, this time across the river in Dartmouth and wasted no time finding the first bus to the center of the action.

This trip is so different from our last.  No national parks to jump between, no federal land management properties to disappear into for the night, no weeks between grocery and fuel stops!  With major cities regularly on the itinerary, we are learning to adjust.  The problem we face is that the city stuff really isn’t our “thing”.  We have the most fun where we can set up camp, spread out a little bit and find distraction in nature.

That being said, we did our best to take in all Halifax had to offer.  We got off the bus and wandered the shopping district.  We found our way to the waterfront and enjoyed watching the boats in the harbor, perused the vendors and wares.  Being later in the day, we stopped for the mandatory happy hour beverage and bar food and then trudged up the hill to check out the old fortification there.  The city garden wasn’t far and was a highlight with its exceptional diversity and display.

And less than four hours later we were back on the bus, calling it done!  I think the big take away for the day was sitting on the waterfront looking out at the harbor and the Atlantic Ocean beyond and thinking about just being there.  Before this trip, Nova Scotia seemed so very remote.  That distant, northern territory seemingly beyond reach – and here we were, big as life. 

And we settled into our little corner of the WalMart parking lot with the other RV’s and trucks all around and marveled at how much we’ve seen and how far we’ve come.  Another day marked off the calendar, another adventure recorded – and we’re only half way done!

The Cabot Trail August 28

If you’ve been following along, you might already have sensed that we aren’t that great at planning ahead.  We had been hearing that a visit to Nova Scotia was not complete without going to Cape Breton National Park so when it was the closest area to the ferry landing, we headed this way. 

And it was now happening.  With a pretty day promised, we were on the road by 10 with the Cabot Trail map in hand and several keys stopped noted along the way.  Within minutes on the road, we already could see what everyone was talking about.  The area is simply magical!  With soaring cliffs and rich vegetation, sparkling oceans and tranquil lakes, there wasn’t anywhere not captivating to view.

We were hiking a trail in a boreal forest along the waterfront within 30 minutes of departure.  The park does one of the best jobs we’ve seen to date of adding pertinent sign boards along the trail and we were educated along with being mesmerized at every turn. 

The roads in the park are decidedly better than the bulk of the island – thankfully!  With the twists and turns and ascents and descents, trusting the road was a nice addition to the day.  

We made our way around without hurry but missed our turn for the second planned hike of the day in a 350 year-old stand of sugar maple forest.   Trying to see all we could, we grabbed the next exit for a hike through an old growth hardwood forest to a lovely waterfall – a more than worthy replacement for the original plan!

Next up was a bog walk.  Have you ever been to a bog?  Also called a fen in this area, this unique and sensitive landscape is not found in lower latitudes.  Growing up in Wisconsin, I can remember going on bog walks on school field trips.  It was so fun to walk (or jump, back in those days!) on the spongy mosses and see the carnivorous plants and beautiful flowers.I hadn’t experienced a bog in near 50 years!  Of course, highly protected, we weren’t walking in the bog but on a boardwalk.  Seeing the Nova Scotia version of my childhood bog memories was a special treat.

 The final destination on our trip around the Cabot Trail was the Skyline Trail.  With reviews that said “yes, more, please!” and the like, I was particularly excited to try it.  The parking lot for us was near a half mile from the trailhead and already uphill.  The hike had an out and back or longer loop option.  Rob is not a fan of backtracking so we hit the loop on the well-maintained trail.

We hiked a surprisingly uneventful path for quite some distance.  The weather had promised to clear by day’s end and was showing signs of the clouds parting … and then it didn’t!  The clouds came back and started to drop into the valleys around us.  We hiked.  And hiked.  And finally saw the promised viewpoint, the AH spot! 

The clouds had filled in pretty well but it only shrouded the distant shores and left plenty to see and enjoy.  Climbing the 350 steps to the further outlook, we noticed a group with binoculars and wide smiles on their faces.  Joining in at the railing and looking down the steep cliff to the water, we saw the tiny shape of a whale watch boat on chase…and a pod of whales in their wake!  Without binoculars we were limited to thrilling to the distant specks of their ominous shapes and the commotion of the water as they frolicked and sprayed.

Being fortunate to have had amazing vistas to enjoy in our many adventures, we added this one to our growing list.  We headed out to finish the loop back to the parking lot knowing we weren’t even sure where our destination would be for the night.  We were nearing the end of the over six miles of this hike putting our total at over 11 for the day.  With tired feet, we anticipated the end of the hike and even the end of the day’s travels when we noticed some folks ahead with cameras peeled to the side of the trail.

MOOSE!  Two female moose were happily munching anything in their path enjoying the cool of the cloudy late afternoon.  We were only the second couple to come upon them and they were pretty oblivious to our presence.  Bit by bit, walkers from the path stopped to join in the spectacle and for a moment it appeared we may need to exercise MOOSE caution!  But the crowd, however growing, maintained quiet decorum and we enjoyed watching the impressive hulks of nature without incident.

Feeling that we had had the full Cabot Trail experience, we happily finished the park loop and found our way back to the safe and quiet parking lot of our stay two nights before!  We recounted our exceptional day over a beer and dinner this time without musical accompaniment.  Cape Breton had definitely been a highlight!

We've Arrived! August 26 - 28

The ferry was a new experience for us and we were up early to be sure to arrive on time.  Efficient as clockwork, we got lined up in our lane between all the other “big rigs” and waited to board.  Once squeezed into our spot, we went up top for the passage and wiled away the time at the information booth and talking with a lovely British couple, David and Emma.

It was a nice morning and the Nova Scotia coastline beckoned with its rolling hills and sheer cliffs.  We arrived in Caribou before 11 and got right on the road headed for the Ceilidh Trail (pr: kaylee) on Cape Breton Island hoping to score some Celtic music at day’s end.  

Along the way we stopped for lunch and today’s hike at Beaver Mountain Park where we conquered a less than manicured trail but a decent challenge and a good stretch.  We continued on enjoying the scenery along the small coastline roads up the west side of Cape Breton passing numerous little towns (not even a stop sign!) before pulling into a spot that promised evening music and had parking for our big lug.  Lo and behold, there beside us sat David and Emma!

Still a bit ahead of music time, they came in and we shared a beer and our stories from the day before heading to The Red Shoe.  We got the last table in sight of the fiddle/guitar duo who put out quite a bit of music with their two instruments.  They had the place tapping and clapping in no time, ever increasing as the drinking continued. 

Learning that David hailed from Belfast as a child and learned Celtic dance in grade school, we prodded him to show his skills and he thrilled the whole crowd with some great steps and a few high kicks as a bonus!  Such fun!  Already late for their reservation at a campground still over an hour away, they left us to settle in for the night at the community center parking area and they headed out hoping our paths might still cross in the days ahead.

Rob and I went back over for the Monday night jam session that began at 830 and stayed until the instruments were packed back into their cases.  It was an amazing event with dozens of musicians of all ages joining in.  From fiddle to piano to celtic flute, it’s especially great to see young people so love their culture and carry on its traditions. 

Waking the next morning to miserable weather, we decided to completely change our course and not venture into the Cape Breton Highlands Park.  Reportedly the highlight of a trip to Nova Scotia, we didn’t want to miss any of the park to lousy weather.  We instead crossed the island and made our way up the eastern coast in the driving rain and took a campsite at the far end of the Cabot Trail to await the next day’s promise of better weather. 

The day was spent being practical.  Laundry, cleaning and a game or two ensued when we noticed a break in the rain and we chanced a wander around.  We discovered a trail to the waterfront and found nature’s power on display with magnificent waves and wild spray all topped off with the gift of a rainbow!  By day’s end, we had witnessed 4 different rainbows, all unique – one shallow and wide, one high and bright, one double and another with each color boldly displayed! 

When David and Emma pulled in at sundown, our day was complete.  They joined us for drinks and cards and at night’s end we parted as friends.  The next day dawned bright and beautiful and we showed David and Emma the way to the beach before parting ways the final time as we headed out for the Cabot Trail with anticipation.

Frustrated from the Road!

Hi All!
Been having a great time up here!  Cape Breton Highlands National Park is a gem, Nova Scotia an excellent destination!  Having some technical difficulties however and not able to get any photos downloaded!  Posting stories in the mean time but they're just not the same without the photos.  Just so beautiful up here!
Thanks for following.  Makes me feel like I've got friends along for the ride!